Shift lever removal

[Tinster]

Merry Christmas one and all!!

I am prepping the Crypt Car to install the
new TRF Magic clutch and drive trane components.

I cannot get the transmission cover off because
I cannot remove the gear shift lever. Bentley Blue
Book is really vague on this one.

I have removed all the screws, shifter in neutral
and lever arm rotated 90 degrees. When I pull up on the
lever I get strong resistance... like I am pulling
against a compressing spring of some kind.

I did not pull too hard for fear of snapping off inside
the housing.

So how the heck exactly do I remove the gear shift lever?

thanks

dale /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[Bugeye58]

Dale, on both the Spit and GT6 of mine, you have to push down on the steel cover and rotate it a bit to clear the retaining pins. Is the TR6 the same?
I'm not a TR6 person, but the picture looks identical to the setups I have.
Jeff

 

[Tinster]

I am not sure what is the steel cover?
The outer steel ring thru which the
adjusting screws fit, I have tried to rotate,
pry off, bang off and push down. It will not budge.

I can pull up on the lever itself but I get an ever increasing resistance like I am pulling against a
spring.

I have tried pushing down on the shift lever as well.
But when I pull up on it, again, the increasing resistence.

 

[Bugeye58]

Dale, the steel can on the top of the housing. The shift lever comes through it.
Jeff

 

[Tinster]

oK- I can push down and rotate the
dome shaped black piece that surrounds
the shift lever.

When I push it down I hear a "click"

Then while holding it down with two fingers,
I use my other hand to pull upward on the shift lever.

Same problem- the stronger I pull upward, the stronger is
the resistance I feel. It feels like I am pulling against
a coil spring.

I would cut the trans cover off in pieces but then the
replacement cover would not fit over the shift lever either.

a quandry

dale [image]https://[/image]

 

[Bugeye58]

Dale, after you rotate it, you should be able to remove it by pulling up on the cover. Maybe there is just a bunch of crud under there that is impeding its removal.
Jeff

 

[Guest]

Dale,
Since you removed the three bolts (one front and two sides) the can wiggles off. May be rusted on. Try using a tension strap (like the kind to remove an oil filter) to loosen or a giant set of channel locks. The can comes straight up. The shift lever should not be rotated 90*, keep it straight back. The lever comes up after the can is off.

 

[Guest]

When you finally get to remove the shift lever, be careful, there is a small bullet shaped ball in the back of the lever that is spring loaded. Don't lose it, keeps the shift from rattling.

 

[swift6]

Unless its too late. You don't have to remove the gear shift lever on the TR6 to pull the gearbox cover. Put the transmission into reverse and the cover can pop up and over the lever as you slide the gearbox cover torwards the rear of the car until the lever slips below it. Does that make sense? I have pulled several TR6 gearboxes and have never had to pull the lever.

 

[Don Elliott]

But you will have to take the knob off before you lift the tunnel. This will give you another 2" of vertical clearance.

 

[Tinster]

Shawn gets the gold star for the best tip.
Ten seconds tops, and the trans cover was on
the gargae floor.

Bill, also took your advice and removed the
shift lever (just in case the PO had been in there)
Of course he had and it's buggered up to a
fair-thee-well.Bullet and spring looooooong gone.

BYW: Did I ever tell you folks the PO of my TR never
did any actual repair work on the car himself? No?
Well, to save money, when something broke, he took
it to a nearby auto junkyard where the parts boy (Joe)
worked on it in his spare time.

My tranny is presently attached to the engine by three
bolts. That doesn't seem correct to me... but then,
I know almost nothing about TR6 mechanical stuff.
It just looks odd.

Is this something I should deal with when I install
the new clutch?

Thanks as always for everyone's kind help.

dale

 

[Guest]

[ QUOTE ]

My tranny is presently attached to the engine by three
bolts. That doesn't seem correct to me... but then,
I know almost nothing about TR6 mechanical stuff.
It just looks odd.





[/ QUOTE ]

Uh, er, you are kidding, right? Are you saying that all the other bolts weren't there?

Tell me they were attached.

 

[Tinster]

Nope! What you see is what I got.

One on the right, one on the top and
one on the left.

Are these special bolt/nut assemblies or can
I source them locally from a screw supply house?

BTW Bill, what is the negative impact upon the Crypt Car
with all those bolts being missing?

Man, can you believe this latest development?

d

 

[philknight]

Bill, You think this might be the smoking gun from his clutch woes?
Dale, I am amazed at the heart and soul of your cript car, that it runs at all after the missuse/upkeep by it's DPO.

 

[Guest]

Well, since it seems to have had only a few miles on it, probably nothing. If driven for a while, catastrophic failure of your drive train. Was the bell housing tight against the engine plate? If so, you may be ok. Dale, I am serious, are there any attorneys on the island?

 

[Guest]

Or a good hit man.

 

[TR6oldtimer]

Dale, in one sense, you are one lucky guy in that the whole thing did not just drop out or on you.

You need to get the appropriate length, 5/16 UNF grade 5 or grade 8 hex bolts, lock washers, and nuts at any auto parts or good hardware store. There are a couple of places where studs are needed at the top. The starter uses 3/8 UNF grade 5 or 8 bolts locks, and nuts.

Put them in before you take the car to the mechanic. Once there and the transmission removed, have them give the transmission housing a through inspection for cracks or other damage.

Ray

 

[Alan_Myers]

Hi Dale,

I'm glad you caught the fact that those bolts were missing, before the problems got worse! I agree that this should be very high on your list of things to fix!

Slight correction, Ray, I think those 5/16" bolts are coarse thread (UNC) not fine (UNF). Usually any thread into cast metal like the block will be a coarse thread. (The larger 3/8" bolts by the starter are UNF.)

Dale, at the 12 o'clock position there is often a stud, instead of a bolt. This helps when reinstalling the gearbox, giving something to hang the bellhousing on (rather than the gearbox's input shaft).

Use lock washers, Locktite and Nylock nuts to keep things from rattling loose.

Be careful to properly position the clutch slave cylinder mounting bracket. It's easy to get wrong, which will change the relationship of the pushrod to the lever and lead to problems.

Also, it is pretty important to align the gearbox properly. You'll find info here on BCF in the archives about this, with TR6 you need to use some sort of dowel (the rear end of a proper size drill bit is one possibilty) to help align things when reinistalling the gearbox. Do some Googling about TR6 clutch woes and you will find info elsewhere on the Internet, too.

Of course, before you get to all the above, you still have to finish pulling the gearbox out of the car. This is where some folks get stuck. You need to unfasten the driveshaft at the rear, first.

Then put a 2x4 or 2x6 on top of a jack and position that under the engine's oil sump pan, near the rear of the pan, and use it to lift the engine a little to raise the rear of the gearbox. While doing this watch carefully that the bellhousing flange doesn't hang up on the body, and that nothing is getting caught up in the engine compartment. You don't need to tilt the engine much, just enough to allow the gearbox to move rearward.

Happy holidays!

 

[Guest]

[ QUOTE ]

Slight correction, Ray, I think those 5/16" bolts are coarse thread (UNC) not fine (UNF). Usually any thread into cast metal like the block will be a coarse thread. (The larger 3/8" bolts by the starter are UNF.)


[/ QUOTE ]


Actually, the bolts are fine thread and they bolt through the engine plate, not the block. They are not threaded into the metal, fit snugly into the holes and use the lock washers and nuts to hold them together.

 

[Tinster]

Bill et al,

I checked beneath the tranny, under the car .
All the bottom bolts are in place and the junction
seems tight. No oil drips under that location.

The bolts all look brand new. I'm guessing the guys
at Western Auto installed the new looking bolts when they installed the new clutch master and slave cylinders.

So maybe all is not lost (or ruined)

FWIW: Crypt Car just started easy as you please
and settled into a 800 rpm idle.

d