Replacing driver side floor

[bighealeysource]

Hey all,
Quick question for you - can you replace the driver's side
floor without removing the entire body off of a 69 TR6 ?
Or, what do you have to do to replace the current floor
with a new sheet metal one from someone like Moss ?
Thanks,
Mike

 

[TR6oldtimer]

If you have good solid metal along the inner sill and fore and aft bulkheads, just cut out the bad stuff leaving a lip to accept the new metal (I recommend buying the pan from one of the vendors and cut to overlap the edges) then weld on (one could also us epoxy and rivet systems now being used in body repair).

To replace the entire floor requires lifting the body from the car and is a whole lot more work. I recommend doing this only if the sills are in need of repair.

 

[tdskip]

Mike - any pictures of the floors to help better assess the approach?

 

[BryanC]

I replaced both sides of my car just as Ray suggested. I cut out the old floor and left about a 3/4" lip around the edge. I bought floors from one of the usual suspects. The floors were the right shape, etc. I trimmed the new floors to sit on top of the edge that I left. The new floors were then welded in place. Keeping the tub on the frame takes care of worries about alignment when you weld in the floors.

You do have to take your time around the body mount points on the outside of the floor (front one with four holes and rear one with three holes). There is a reinforcement piece welded to the bottom of the floor and to the inner rocker in those places. I cut the floor and left the edge there as elsewhere and then used a spot weld cutter to separate the floor from the reinforcement panel underneath. I drilled some new holes in the new floor in that area and plug welded the floor to the reinforcements below.

Bryan

 

[bighealeysource]

Hey all,
Thanks for the advice - I'll try to get a couple of pictures but think
cutting it out as described will work as don't think the rust got into the
sill or frame member.
Thanks,
Mike

 

[Tom74TR6]

You should be able to replace the floors with the body on frame. Just make sure everything is braced

I have more pictures, click here

 

[Popeye]

Mike,

Good luck!

I am in the middle of doing this right now, and it is painful. (It is hot here in the South - I notice you are a stateline over - and metal shavings stick to sweaty skin and irritate.)

In addition to the floors, I am replacing the inner sills, as well as a little work on the bottom of the firewall (in front of the throttle/brake/clutch pedals) and the vertical metal piece at the rear of the floor (in front of the rear axle).

I lifted the body off the frame - which gives much better access to everything. If your interior is out, lifting the body is pretty simple... 27 bolts and two chain hoists from Northern Tool, and the body is in the air, the floor at face level. The problem with this, of course, is all the other rust is visible.

To weld in the new floors, I will first bolt the floor to the frame, lower and bolt the body back to the frame (keeping the spacers in place), bolt on the door, check alignment, weld.

Good luck!
Mike
66TR4A

 

[Popeye]

P.S. When cutting out the floors, pay attention to gas and brake lines!!

 

[Guest]

I replaced both floors last year on my TR6 by doing one side at a time. That way I did not have to brace anything. I, like Ray, left a lip all around and just MIG-ed in new floors. Not that bad, really. Now that I look back. I tacked every few inches then just connected the dots with a seamless weld, skipping around to avoid excessive heat.

 

[CUPWALKER]

wow I thought I was the only one around here with rust problems. Take many pictures and let us know how your doing and i will do the same.

 

[CUPWALKER]

and I would listen to Bill as a welder/fabricator with sheet metal heat is ur worse enemy.