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Replacing the crank pulley/damper

twas_brillig

Jedi Knight
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Our 1962 BJ7 is in a shop (19 months now) having body work done and some mechanical upgrades.
Is it possible to replace the crank pulley/damper without pulling the engine? If so, then that will probably be one of the upgrades. If not, then it won't happen - if we pull the engine, then there should be a few more things done (like an early rebuild) and I'd like to be able to drive the car this year. Thanks, Doug
 
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twas_brillig

Jedi Knight
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Dang, now I'm embarrassed! Haven't been on this forum for several years (been on the Spridget one for the last few months as we're assembling a Bug-Eye), and was lazy and did not to a search. The grey haired mechanic where our Healey is told the younger shop foreman that the engine would have to be pulled, so figured I'd try to do some independent checking. Thanks, Keoke. Doug
 

steveg

Yoda
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Dang, now I'm embarrassed! Haven't been on this forum for several years (been on the Spridget one for the last few months as we're assembling a Bug-Eye), and was lazy and did not to a search. The grey haired mechanic where our Healey is told the younger shop foreman that the engine would have to be pulled, so figured I'd try to do some independent checking. Thanks, Keoke. Doug

You don't have to pull the engine. Pull the radiator. Suggest getting a few long 3/8" fine bolts. On my engine I had to disconnect the throttle rod from the firewall.
Remove motor mount bolts, substituting longer bolts as guides. Some folks replace all 8 with studs - this is the best.
Jack up the engine enough for the pulley to clear the front cross member.
Other posts have info on the wrench size and methods for undoing the crank nut.

If earlier stock-type damper you have the option of just replacing the damper without removing the pulley; you may also wish to replace the seal in the front housing and maybe put a speedy sleeve on the pulley seal surface.
 

Keoke

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Hoppy Easter to all you Blokes---Keoke
 
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