Removing chrome from threads

[lbcfan]

Just when I think I'm home free...

I had the BE grab handle re-chromed, and the plating left a thickened area on the end of the 1/4-28 threads- can't get the nut on.

I tried a cheap die but it wouldn't start on the thread.

I've read that hydrochloric/muriatic acid will remove chrome, but the area is coated pretty thick. Does anyone have a better "solution"? A wire brush wheel didn't touch it.

Thanks,

Michael

 

[kalist]

I would try using a small file to clean the excess down to a point where you could run a die down the threads. Be very careful you don't jam the die and snap the stud off.

 

[Rut]

IIRC, HF has a cheap thread restorer that might do the job. I don't know if this would work, but you might be able to set up a plating bath in reverse and remove it that way.
Good luck, Rut

 

[The_architect]

Try a thread file. Not sure how this will do on chrome, but everybody should have this handy tool in their toolbox. Most decent hardware stores carry them.

Charlie

 

[lbcfan]

Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I took the easy way out and cut off 1/4" of length where the blobs were. Still left plenty of thread for proper fastening.

If you are having parts chromed for the first time ask about this issue, and also whether they properly finish only the front side of the bumper, or both sides. That was another surprise.

Michael

 

[rkep01]

Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I took the easy way out and cut off 1/4" of length where the blobs were. Still left plenty of thread for proper fastening.

If you are having parts chromed for the first time ask about this issue, and also whether they properly finish only the front side of the bumper, or both sides. That was another surprise.

Michael

I've got an original B/E bumper and it looks like it was chromed on both sides, but only the front side is polished and shiny. The back of the bumper looks like chrome, but it's very dull, as if the back was not polished.

 

[BillW103]

You will allways have to chase the threads after rechroming. Will they be long enough with the wood backing. It sounds tike they were a bit excessive.

 

[Whitephrog]

Michael

The grab handle is pot metal as I recall. Did your chome guy have any special issues with that?

 

[lbcfan]

The handle was fine- it didn't seem like pot metal, and the threads were longer than needed. My motorola radio face was pot metal and the chrome finish was poor, with a lot of pinholes. Fortunately all but the bezel is concealed behind the flat chrome plate that covers the dashboard cutout.

It's funny but I get no reception on the radio, but a little static. Are there still am stations? I was hoping to get Cousin Brucie one more time.

After 42 years I noticed that the radio has the 2 conelrad stations marked on the dial. That brought back some memories as well...

 

[Sarastro]

Yeah, there are still AM stations, but they're not worth listening to. Here in LA they are just a source of ads for scam products.

Look around ebay a bit. The AM-only period radios are pretty cheap. Unfortunately, the AM-FM ones tend to go for much more dough.

I'm old enough to remember Conelrad, too. Very cool! I remember periodically testing the system when I was a tech at AM and AM-FM radio stations.

 

[Billm]

I still have my old "period correct" JC Whitney AM/FM converter from my Sprite in 1969. Doesn't need to be rechromed yet!
BillM

 

[startech47]

The plater can mask off the threads and eliminate the growth problem if asked, both for external and internal holes.

We had parts that needed to be hard coat anodized in sections and irridited in other sections. They would mask off the areas to be irridited, anodize the part, remove the masking, and finally irridite the part. The internal threaded holes were masked off and after the part was finished we would insert helicoils in the holes. Without the masking the screws would not fit. Tapping the holes was too hard to do and we needed the finish under the helicoils.

The hard coat anodize was for radiative heat transfer and the irridite type 3 was for electrical conductivity.

 

[lbcfan]

I remember JC Whitney was the go-to place, way before the internet. Of course I also remember the Sears catalog...

 

[aeronca65t]

.......It's funny but I get no reception on the radio, but a little static. Are there still am stations? I was hoping to get Cousin Brucie one more time.

After 42 years I noticed that the radio has the 2 conelrad stations marked on the dial. That brought back some memories as well...

My MGB also is fitted with the original AM radio, but it's a '69 so too new for Conelrad (replaced by the Emergency Broadcast System in the mid '60s).

Yes, there are still AM stations in the NJ area, but in my opinion, they are not worth listening to.

Cousin Brucie is still around. He's on Sirius XM satellite radio, on the "'60s on 6" channel. For a while, he owned an AM station in Dover, NJ (near me).

 

[nomad]

I really miss decent AM radio. You could drive across the country tuned to just a couple stations. With FM you have to go looking every hour or so. Sure theres Satelite and cd's but I am really mad at haveing to pay for everything now days that used to be free. I'll never forget driving all night to get to the Sturgis motor cycle races and listening to old radio drama's on WNAX. After midnight they would air stuff from the 30's and it was so interesting that it kept me wide awake.

Kurt.

 

[Deleted member 9684]

Michael, Who did your chrome?

Also looking for someone to strip, polich and anodize my windshield frame and cockpit surrounds if anyone knows of a shop in the northeast(really prefer not to ship if I don't have to)

 

[lbcfan]

Seano-

I went to a local plater in Asbury Park- the closest to my home that I could find- Merchant Superchrome. The result looks good for my driver- I can add some photos to my Imagehosting page if you like.

I had the hubcaps, the front bumper and bumperettes, the radio bezel and plate (mine is the same as yours) the grab handle and (of course) the turn signal light bezel for $425, and he dropped off the parts when finished!

The problems were the buildup on the threads on the handle, and the fact that I did not know enough to ask about doing both sides of the front bumper.

One other issue- if you have the gearshift lever done do not plate the ball at the bottom. I had that done earlier and found that the lever wouldn't move when first installed. The plating began grinding off the ball as it moved. Have them avoid plating that part.

I'm watching your progress with interest. Thanks for the photos.

Michael