Opinion on intake and exhaust manifold studs

[2wrench]

Proper sized intake and exhaust manifold studs have a
non-threaded portion of the stud that goes through the
manifold(s).

If a more generic version of stud were used, is there any
problems that could ensue because the portion of the stud
that goes through the manifold is threaded instead of flat?

Thanks,

 

[TR3driver]

Should be OK, as long as the locating dowels are in place (to keep the studs from contacting the manifolds). Otherwise the threads act like hacksaw teeth and cut into the manifolds.

But since correct studs appear to be available for not much more than what a generic stud would cost (about $2 each from TRF) ... why not use them ?

 

[DrEntropy]

...and we will NOT get into an explaination of tensile strengths of various steel mixes and/or threading techniques and their effect on structural strength...

 

[Guest]

Also, the proper studs are difficult to find (TRF has them, and surely the other big vendors so as well). Studs from auto supply houses are all fine threads on one end and course on the other. The proper studs are SAE fine thread on both ends. The short end goes into the head. I use jamb nuts (two nuts jambed together) to properly snug <span style="font-weight: bold">the short end</span> into the head. The torquing comes in when the blank portion jambs against the head and will no longer thread any deeper. There is a slight risk of over-threading the all-thread stud into the head, awfully close to the head studs. Some folks will only hand-tighten the studs in and the result can be that you will back the stud out when removing it down the road. Just get the right studs and be done with it.

 

[Brosky]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Just get the right studs and be done with it.[/QUOTE]

Amen, Brother Bill, Amen......

 

[2wrench]

Okie dokey. They're on order.