TR2/3/3A HELP...Can't get the sleeves out of TR3 Block.....

[Guest]

I am at the final stages of dismantling this little darling...removing the four cast sleeves. I have no intention of reusing the old sleeves (don't ask) so even breaking them out is ok by me. (This was suggested to me)
I know that with enough hammering on the bottom side of these little jewels that I can really wedge them in or even crack the block. If the block gets screwed up, ya'll will inherit a bunch of TR3 engine parts. I really want to get these things out without damaging the block so I can send it off to be dipped and cleaned. Any suggestions? And is breaking them out really a viable alternative to just "tapping them out" like the book says (right)?


Bill (with sore fingers)

 

[Tinkerman]

Hi Bill:
I went through the proces with the sleeves in my engine. Tapping is a real laugh. It takes brute force. Like a 5 pound sledge and a big drift punch. I also let them soak for days with liquid wrench. I would not even consider trying to break them, too much potential for collateral damage. What I did was to take one whack at a time around the perimeter of the sleeve. They slowly started to move down so more liquid wrench and more whacking. If you have a friend that has a machine shop it would be simple to make a steel billet of the right size. I didn't, so it was a big drift punch and a substantial whacker. The drift punch needs to have a perfect flat surface because you are not beating on a big edge. In fact I ended up using a large cold chisel.
Any how, lots of luck, don't give up, they will come out.

Cheers, Tinkerman

 

[Guest]

GOTTEM!!! I know have one swollen left index finger (I slipped) and four really rusty (on the outside) sleeves sitting on the ground. How much rust in the water cavity is too much? I mean, is it possible that this thing could be terminally rusted? I think I am being paranoid. Now, just a few more bolts and I can slide this puppy aside until I can load her in my pickup to take to the block doctor.


Thanks for the encouragement.


Bill

 

[Tinkerman]

Hi Bill:
Glad you got them out. I wouldnt worry about the rust until your block doctor cleans it up and then take a look at the block. The nature of the beast is that it is a wet sleeve engine, and you will have some rust. I had one pundit tell me that the blocks are bullet proof and I suspect he is correct.
Good luck, Tinkerman

 

[Alan_Myers]

Hi Bill,

Glad you were successful.

A small but important thing, if the folks doing the block cleaning aren't very familiar with wet liner engines, you might point out they need to be very careful around the seats for the figure 8 gaskets. Those surfaces need to be as good as possible to make for the best seal.

You'll also be replacing the camshaft bearings and core plugs, right?

Even after "boiling", check the area around the cam followers and inside the oil galleries. There's often still some swarf left in there.

And, maybe you are already aware, there are plugs in either end of the crankshaft that can be removed to allow cleaning its internal oil passageways, too. Look for the hex head plugs.

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