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Hello I'm new to Triumph Cars

Zitch

Jedi Hopeful
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Hello,

I'm about to pick up a 63 triumph TR4. I've never owned a Triumph Car, had a newer bike about 12 years ago.

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Tr4INT2_zpsda7057bc.jpg



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Engine Video



I'm trying to pick her up next week, probably tow. She starts, But I was just having problems getting it in gear. I'm pretty sure the Slave or master is gone on the clutch-

Pretty sure its a 4 speed....

1 3
| | |
2 4 R

But correct me if I'm wrong

Any suggestions on where to start, books, online diagrams, to get her up an running right? And a good way to tow her if need be. Plan on changing all fluids and removing the start button the previous owner added in the engine bay.

What is a good asking price for a TR-4 in this condition?


Thanks,

Zitch,
 
Last edited:

Lukens

Jedi Warrior
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No offense, but it sounds to me like you don't know what you're buying. Plenty of info to be found around here... before you buy.
 

sail

Darth Vader
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Congratulations. Correct on shift pattern, reverse lift up slightly. If it sat for a while the clutch plate might just be stuck to the flywheel assuming hydraulics are operational. Look for movement at the slave cylinder. Get a Moss Motors catalog https://www.mossmotors.com for starters although you will learn of other suppliers their catalog shows every nut and bolt. You could not be in a better spot to ask questions. Also the search will find you previous posts to many of your questions but don't be shy. I would rent or borrow a trailer to tow.
 
OP
Z

Zitch

Jedi Hopeful
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No offense, but it sounds to me like you don't know what you're buying. Plenty of info to be found around here... before you buy.

Lukens,

You are correct, I am new to the Triumph realm.

This 63 was owned by a friend of a friend. It was driven 6 months ago and has very little rust, new fuel tank, and tires. I probably don't know what I'm buying but I delt with other older cars in the past and some buddies of mine who own MGBs and one of their MG mechanics thought it would be a good pick for the price.

From what I have posted what do you think this 63 TR4 would be worth???

I'll learn as I go, join the local club and read up on the forums.
Thanks
 
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Welcome aboard, you'll find a lot of good advice here about what to and what not to do. Any idea when the last time your 4 was on the road?
 

Gliderman8

Yoda
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+1 on renting a trailer to move it. Nice car!
 

TR3driver

Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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Looks good!

That's the right shift pattern, except I believe you are supposed to pull up on the knob to select reverse. Clutch hydraulics are the most common cause of shifting problems, tho of course there are many possibilities.

For towing, my only choices would be either flatbed or trailer. If you do opt for a tow dolly, you'll want to disconnect the driveshaft if you are going more than perhaps 30-40 miles (the gearbox will not lubricate properly while the input shaft is not turning); and also make sure the rear tires are up to date. Old radial tires can fly apart suddenly, even if they have lots of tread and no weather-checks; the resulting damage can be severe. Last time it happened to me, the belts turned into a giant flap wheel and took off all the paint plus part of the sheet metal before I could get pulled over. Using a tow bar is a really bad idea IMO, the bumper and frame extensions are not strong enough. It probably won't break completely, but the flexing won't be good.

Does the "start button" have two big cables attached to it? If so, that is the original starter solenoid and you'll probably want to keep it. It does come in handy from time to time :smile:

For manuals, I definitely prefer the factory manuals. Fortunately reprints are readily available. Check eBay for the CD version, around $10-$12 with shipping. Moss, Roadster Factory and maybe VB will have a paper reprint that includes the workshop manual and owner's manual, but they are rather more expensive. I just checked TRF and they have it "on sale" for $80 + S&H (PN RBTR4).

Every once in awhile, tatty originals show up on eBay without "silly money" price tags on them.

They won't really help you with troubleshooting much, but will have all the service procedures. These old cars require a lot more periodic maintenance than newer cars do; and many of the common problems can be traced to neglected maintenance. One of my favorites, just to illustrate how arcane some of it can be, is to put a drop of motor oil under the ignition rotor every 6000 miles. (It slowly soaks down inside the distributor and lubricates the centrifugal advance mechanism.)

Lots of debate over the best fluids to use, not really any clear consensus. Personally, I prefer
Valvoline VR1 synthetic for the engine (which has lots of the magic ZDDP);
Redline MT-90 for the gearbox (which is a full synthetic GL4 specifically designed to improve synchro operation in manual gearboxes); and
Valvoline Synpower gear oil (full synthetic, GL5, 75W90; has none of the sulfur additive that can attack the thrust washers in a TR diff).
Oh, and I've been using Prestone "any color" extended life antifreeze.

My 59 TR3A didn't seem to care about unleaded fuel, but the 56 was clearly suffering from valve seat recession until I started adding an ounce of Redline lead substitute to every tankful. Based on some comments from a local expert about excessive ring wear with "oxygenated" gasoline (which is all you can buy around here), I also add about 3 ounces per tankful of TC-W3 2-cycle oil to the gasoline. Can't say for sure that it helps, but the engine seems to like it. And the TC-W3 is a lot cheaper than Marvel Mystery Oil (which is actually what he reommended).

BTW, Triumph motorcars have essentially nothing in common with Triumph motorcycles except the name and being British. The two companies split way back in 1934 (I think it was).
 

BillyB62

Jedi Trainee
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Welcome Zitch,

You'll find there is a great deal of knowledge and willingness of folks here on the forum to help. Welcome aboard the Triumph ship, get ready for a fun ride!
 

TR4A_IRS

Jedi Trainee
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Welcome! It's always nice to have a new Triumph owner amongst us. Ask away, and we will do our best to help you figure out your new car.
 

HerronScott

Darth Vader
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Welcome! From the pictures it looks pretty solid although that driver-side floor looks a little rusty. You'll want to really make sure that the brake hydraulics are in good order since it only has a single circuit master cylinder so if you lose a seal you'll have no brakes at all. It would be good to make sure the emergency brake is working as well.

You can get the Brooklands version of the factory workshop manual from Amazon for $53 with free Prime shipping if you subscribe.

https://www.amazon.com/Triumph-Tr4A...57603965&sr=8-10&keywords=tr4+workshop+manual

Scott
 

KVH

Luke Skywalker
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Get the British Leyland Blue Cover 360 Page Service Manual for TR4 with the TR4A Supplement. Good looking car! Go for it.

Patience, reading, learning, safety. Always us jack stands or good, safe ramps. And lots of questions you should post right here.

There will be things to address. Here are some that aren't expensive and can make a world of difference:

a) front end bushings, ball joints, tie rods and front shocks; b) properly fastened driver and passenger seats; check the bolts and captive nuts, etc.; c) steering rod bushings in the steering tube if they're worn: d) new or rebuilt rear lever shocks if bad, and even more important, those "shock links" in the rear; e) ignition timing; f) check the fuel line for breaks and leaks, all the way from the tank to the pump; g) new floor insulating material, sound insulation and maybe carpet.

And, of course, you mentioned the transmission getting into gear. If the clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder needs a rebuild that could be the only problem. Check the fluid for leaks. Sounds like a good idea to tow it. No risks.

But, nice car and good luck.
 

DanB

Jedi Warrior
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I have towed TR4-6s pretty good distances using a towbar without disconnecting anything, Randall. They don't have an internal oil pump like the LT77 in a TR7. Is the transmission in a TR3 different, or did I screw up? I haven't noticed any problems.

Dan B
 

KVH

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When I bought my car in Buellton, CA a few miles from Moss Motors everyone said to get the British Leyland manual. It's never left me asking any question that a book could answer. It's just terrific. I don't know about Bentley's manual; it could be fine. I've rebuild my overdrive and engine, rebuilt two front ends, replaced two steering racks, pulled out and replaced two dashes, replaced rear axles and done a lot more using that BL manual. I'll admit there are a number of wizards here who add a lot more of the real world stuff, and I'm greatly indebted to them all. I'd be sure you have that BL manual, and then try the Bentley one, too, if you want more. I'm not sure if the BL one is online, and actually don't know the easiest source. I note a number of websites, including: https://www.britanniaparts.com/triumph/triumph-tr4-and-tr4a-workshop-manual-1961-1968.html
 

sail

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OP
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Zitch

Jedi Hopeful
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Added some more Pictures and a video,

Is $13500 a good asking price for a TR-4 in this condition?

Thanks,

Zitch
 
Last edited:

TR3driver

Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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I'd be sure you have that BL manual, and then try the Bentley one, too, if you want more.
No point in that, since the Bentley is just a reprint of the factory manuals. They are basically interchangeable, except I prefer the factory looseleaf format so I can more easily copy pages to carry to the garage and not risk getting the original greasy.

Dan B, it is true that there is no oil pump as such in either TR3 or TR4-6 gearboxes. But the countershaft lays down in the oil bath and flings oil all around inside the case, which basically splash lubes the bushings where the gears ride on the mainshaft, plus the needle bearing where the mainshaft rides in the input shaft. Since the countershaft is geared to the input shaft, it does not turn when the engine isn't running and the lubrication isn't there. I've gotten away with it myself, but I have also seen gearboxes that were ruined by it. Not a good idea if you can avoid it, IMO.
 
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