Easy way to remove the original oil filter and can

[bobh]

I relaize many of you have converted to a spin on filter. My adapter continued to leak so I went back to the original setup.
Fortunately it only took about 10 or 15 minutes. Forget about removing the front tire and drilling a hole in the inner fender. Sears has an excellent set of wrenches that make the job a piece of cake.
There are several versions of the "Gear Wrench" out there. The shortcoming of the Gear Wrench is the ratcheting end is flat. This allows you to use one side to tighten and flip it over to loosen. However having a flat wrench doesn't allow easy acces to the filter bolt. The Sears wrenches have a slight bend to the shaft at the ratchet end and a lever to change the direction of the ratchet. The offset allows you to reach the bolt head. They use a 72 tooth (5 degrees per tooth)ratchet gear and of course the ability to reverse the direction without removing the tool. A set of these is 2 to 3 times the cost of Gear Wrenches. If you catch them on sale they are around $80. I've had mine for about 2 years and they are great for working in tight places.
Removing the canister requires 2 more steps. First is to unhook the wires from the oil sender unit and remove the unit. Be careful because it is aluminum. I found that a 1 1\16 " socket will fit.
The steering rod prevents you from getting the canister out on the top, and there is no clearance on the bottom. I used a piece of softwood about 1 1/2 X 3 x 30" to gently pry the steering rod toward the engine allowing the canister to come out bolt first. Slide the wood down between the steering rod and the inner fender. Put the lower end on the frame and the middle against the rod. You only lack maybe 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch to clear the canister. Apply just enough pressure to move the rod this amount. Between the flexibility of the rod and the rubber joint you can move the rod without damaging anything.

 

[Don Elliott]

Re: Easy way to remove the original oil filter and

Bob - I have the original filter body on my 1958 TR3A. To make it easier to remove, I shortened the long center bolt that secures the cannister to the head. I think it's now about 3/16" shorter. I also tapered the end of the bolt to make it easier to install.

Don Elliott, Original Owner, TS 27489 LO

https://mysite.wanadoo-members.co.uk/trebor/don3a_big.JPG

 

[tr6web]

Re: Easy way to remove the original oil filter and

Somehow I always manage to wiggle my canister out somehow on my 6. Don't know how I do it, but it comes out through the top. Just takes a few minutes each time to remember how I did it.

 

[Musicman]

Re: Easy way to remove the original oil filter and

Bob H,

When you say "oil sending unit" do you mean the oil pressure switch, or the oil pressure relief valve?

 

[bobh]

Re: Easy way to remove the original oil filter and

The oil pressure switch. It's the aluminum piece with the wire or wires depending on the year of your car.

 

[Musicman]

Re: Easy way to remove the original oil filter and

Thanks for the info. I took a look under the hood. It must be the thing screwed into the block to the left of and above the oil canister. It has 3 or 4 wires hooked up to it.

 

[AngliaGT]

Re: Easy way to remove the original oil filter and

I just leave the canister between the engine & the frame.
BTW, as I was trying, & trying,& trying to get the canister
back on after changing the oil (TR6),my son said "Why don't you use the hole in the frame?".I then relized that the hole is there so you can use a socket,ratchet wrench,& an
extension to do this.
I really hope that this helps someone.

- Doug

 

[Brosky]

Re: Easy way to remove the original oil filter and

Any time that you remove and replace an oil pressure switch you are asking for problems in the future. Take note of the fine threads on the switch and the odd size of the switch itself. For years this design has caused problems for both foreign and domestic mechanics due to the awkward shape as well as the location of most switches. I would try to correct the leak issues with the adapter and get away from removing the switch if at all possible. No car has ever been designed to require this much work to simply change the oil properly.

 

[bobh]

Re: Easy way to remove the original oil filter and

Paul,
I appreciate your comments.
Short of ordering one of the new 2 piece spin on adapters I have tried just about everything imaginable to seal the adapter. O-rings, crush washers, bonded sealing washers, custom neoprene gaskets.... Every attempt ended with a loss of oil while running. The adapter came from a spare engine. The original seals were not on the engine. I've contacted the manufacturer (Think Automotive). Posted questions here... After losing between 1/2 and 1 quart of oil each time I go for a 25 mile run I decided to go back to the original.
I'll add an oil cooler eventually. When I do I will get the new adapter design.
The oil sender can be removed with a 1 1/16 socket. With the socket you can carefully remove and reinstall the switch. I would not recommend trying an adjustable wrench or a open end wrench. It's too easy to bend or break the switch with wrenches.
Doug,
I don't advocate removing the canister every time you change the oil. My '71 had a hole in the inner fender. I haven't looked on the '75. Another advantage to using the ratchet wrench is that you can see and reach into the engine bay, remove the can, change the filter and reinstall. All without having to change your position, or wipe your hands. In my opinion it is more cumbersome to work through the fender well.
Christmas is coming, treat yourself to a ratchet wrench.

 

[Musicman]

Re: Easy way to remove the original oil filter and

Bobh,

I've been following this thread about spin-on adapters vs the canister. There are certainly enough opinions to go around on both sides of the issue. I recently acquired a 1975 TR6. Back in the seventies I owned a 1971 TR6. Anyway, I still haven't decided whether to stick with the canister (which is on the car now) or switch to the spin-on adapter when it's time for the first oil change. You mention not removing the canister for every oil change. In your experience, have you found that the oil filter element that's in the canister can go for 5 or 6 thousand miles? I must admit, I've thought about doing that same exact thing. I just don't want to do anything damaging to the engine by squeezing extra miles out of the filter element.

What's your take on this?

Thanks!

 

[Brosky]

Re: Easy way to remove the original oil filter and

Bob:

I think that the answer may be in the adapter from what you've stated above. Have you checked the surface with a straight edge to confirm that there are no irregular areas that won't seal properly? Is there a local machine shop or tool and die shop that may be able to do this for you? Perhaps they can smooth the sealing edge surface for you inexpensively and solve the problem.

 

[bobh]

Re: Easy way to remove the original oil filter and

Paul,
The adapter appears to be OK. The original canister bolt was used, along with a stack of washers, to attach the adapter to the spare engine. Although I don't know for certain, I suspect the bolt/washer arrangement is the source of the leak. The leak seems to happen only after the oil is warm and running. by the time I park it's dripping from the left frame rail, suspension, even the muffler. I've gone through 3 gallons of mineral spirits cleaning up the oil spots and the drip pan.
The manufactured said they use the standard canister seal for the adapter. They supplied their part numbers for the other seals. The part numbers do not cross to anything I can find. I can order the parts from them in the UK. The temp is cool enough now that I can wait until spring before I need the extra cooling. Sooo...
I'll stick with the original canister until the late spring. Then I will install a new adapter and oil cooler.
Thanks

 

[skikir]

Re: Easy way to remove the original oil filter and

I got rid of my canister about the first time I changed the filter on my TR 20 years ago. I don't know how you can change the canister filter with out getting oil evry where. Removing the sender switch is dangerous. I snapped one off in my Spitfire then I snapped off the easy out trying to get the broken piece out. Virtually totaled the engine. The first adaptor I got I had problems with also. The first time I put it on I had a gusher. Took me 3 or 4 times to figure there was a casting defect in it. I sent it back with the hole circled and they sent me a new one. I swapped it onto my "new" TR and had a problem for a while. replaced all the seals tightened it down until it stopped leaking. I think you really have to tighten the bolt down hard.

 

[Brosky]

Re: Easy way to remove the original oil filter and

This is why they are affectionately referred to as "LBC's".

As Rosanne RosannaDanna used to say "It's always something!"