Dive Shaft Uni Joints

[zblu]

Not long after I had new uni joints installed to the drive shaft someone in passing said there were better types available, I assume they are a common item to all Healeys, so are there any recommended types/ brands?

 

[Keoke]

Hi I would not worry about it too much because if the parts you have installed are not up to the task they will let you know. Further, Uni part is not a single source supplier and the parts you have may be among those in the Irish whispers you heard.---Keoke

 

[zblu]

Keoke,
You talk in riddles, do you mean I have irish parts installed by leprechauns?
and uni is wrong and it should be multi? or should I get my next cup of turkish coffee grinds read?
I am curious as to whether regreaseable or sealed for life are the way to go, One supplier mentioned is Hardy Spicer,
Guess I best check to see if they are in phase first

 

[Dougal]

Zblu,
I can't comment on the little green people. However I did spend a morning the other week replacing the UJ's on my car. The old ones had nipples the new ones have not. Supplied by Geoff at the Healey Factory.

It was disappointing as it turned out that I did not need to do it(could have left it for another 30K). I had a "Clonk" when going from forward to reverse and assumed it was the driveshaft.

When I eventually got round to removing the drive shaft I found it was not to bad. The "clonk" was coming from my diff.

Thought about doing it myself but got it done by Upper Classics here in Christchurch. I replaced all bearings and a few shims and now its good as new.

Since I had the parts thought I may as well fit them.

Dougal

 

[zblu]

Dougal,
From what I've come across the uni joints should be fitted at 90 degrees to each other also so as to minimise amplitudinal effects, you still have to balance all

 

[zblu]

Dougal,
Had a similar clonk, after pulling the diff etc, turned out to be a hub extension that was worn, but had pased a visual re replacement during the refurb

 

[Keoke]

Hi I would not worry about it too much because if the parts you have installed are not up to the task they will let you know. Further, Uni part is not a single source supplier and the parts you have may NOT be among those in the Irish whispers you heard.---Keoke

 

[Keoke]

Keoke,
You talk in riddles, :shocked: do you mean I have irish parts installed by leprechauns? ----PROLLY

and uni is wrong and it should be multi? What's in a name! or should I get my next cup of turkish coffee grinds read? ----China!

I am curious as to whether regreaseable or sealed for life are the way to go.

Depends upon ones age. If scuffling around on the floor to grease those nipples is getting difficult by all means get the sealed ones as they will probably out last the greased ones given ones maintenance cycle may be spotty. One supplier mentioned is Hardy Spicer---Good hardware been around for a long time.,
Guess I best check to see if they are in phase first------ If they are not you probably did it! :laugh:

OJ! I just remembered. These after market U Joints with the grease nipples. The nipples are too short and you can not get the grease gun on to them. This requires that you purchase Longer nipples so you can service the Joints. Keoke

 

[Michael Oritt]

Hardy-Spicer is known for good quality and is made in AUS (that's Australia, not USA). The following is from the HS website and seems to say that they do or have marketed under the Unidrive name:

<span style="font-style: italic">"In 1983, Hardy Spicer became a division of Repco Universal Joints, and changed its name to Repco Universal Drivelines. Acquired by BTR Engineering in June 1987, we later operated under the name Unidrive Pty Ltd. In 1988, a joint venture was formed by BTR Nylex, GKN Industries (UK) and NTN of Japan, which acquired the entire manufacturing division of Repco Universal Drivelines. Early in 2000 BTR sold its interest to GKN and NTN. In April 2002 Hardy Spicer was purchased by HS Company P/L a 100% Australian owned company."</span>

In any case I use the sealed U-joints that do not have grease nipples--the latter are cross-drilled to provide a path for the grease to reach the bearing surfaces and are a bit weaker. Also the passages are quite small and easily clogged.

As another lister observed, a U-joint will let you know when it is in failure mode and its warning should be headed.

 

[andybj8]

Dougal,
From what I've come across the uni joints should be fitted at 90 degrees to each other also so as to minimise amplitudinal effects, you still have to balance all

my understanding is that the two joints should be in line (mine where when I took them off). Just hand mine balanced.

 

[zblu]

andybj8
you're right, checked a couple of of other sites and they are supposed to be in line