Anyone have hood release cable pics?

[MadRiver]

Howdy all. I recently replaced by hood release cable, and I'm very satisfied. However, I forgot to photograph the original before I removed it, and I can't recall what side of the servo it runs on before proceeding to the two clips above the battery on the bulkhead. Can any 250/6 owners answer this vexatious question?

I'm also not convinced that I've inserted the end of the cable into the little bracket on the outside edge of the hood latch itself. Does any kind soul have a close-up photo of their hood latch so I can make sure I've got the cable nice and secure? Thanks as always!

BTW, the new cable is so much smoother than the original, and requires much less force to get the hood to pop open. The old cable sheathing was filled with dirt, grime and rust.

 

[Guest]

Bill, is this new cable from any one of the popular vendors out there? If it is, then it is made in Taiwan and will break sooner than not. I would strongly advise you to consider a backup cable or device to unlatch your bonnet. That said, I am not wishing this on you, just know that I broke four (4) of those suckers, each from a different vendor before I installed the fifth, now use the lever opener I fabricated (a copy of one from 6-Pack and also available on the web) exclusively and keep the cable for looks only.


Bill

 

[MadRiver]

Yikes! Thanks for the info! Has anyone else had a similar experience?

I've got a back-up lever but I haven't installed it because I don't want to drill any extra holes. Also, I read somewhere that they can jam as well. Isn't that the case as well?

 

[Guest]

[ QUOTE ]




I've got a back-up lever but I haven't installed it because I don't want to drill any extra holes. Also, I read somewhere that they can jam as well. Isn't that the case as well?

[/ QUOTE ]
Ain't gonna happen. Here is my homemade version, essentiallly bullet-proof. That wire (paint can handle) goes down into the footwell and has a small rubber grommet to seal it from water.
That lever arm I worked on for quite a while to get the perfect cam action where the movement against the stock lock arm was continuous and never binding. Really does work like a charm. Again, I copied this concept from the 6-Pack website and understand that someone markets these now, probably what you have. The whole concept is fool proof. I am told that the RHD model cars don't break as easily because there is a less circuitous route for the cable.
Bill

 

[ichthos]

I am hoping that someone posts a picture showing the correct positions of the cable also. I had to guess when I put mine in since the last one was broken and removed before I bought it. I guess I will have to wait for the next car show here this summer if no one posts a picture. In any case, I would agree with Bill - get a back up system. I am almost ready to hit the road after a year. The new cable broke after only a few months. It is not fun getting the bonnet open when it breaks. I bought a stainless steel version of the back up system Bill posted a picture of at www.macysgarage.com for $13. It comes with simple installation instructions. I do not like drilling extra holes in my car, but the two small holes I had to drill are not very noticeable. Besides, if (when) your cable breaks again, you may end up doing far more damage opening it up again. I actually use my back up system as the primary system - a lot more reliable, and it works better also.
Kevin

 

[Andy Blackley]

Attached is a pic of my cable routing. My engine bay is unrestored and the cable appears to be original.

 

[Andy Blackley]

And at the other end, the cable ends. I have the 6PAC kit which I am going to be installing REAL soon. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif

 

[Guest]

Andy,
What in the world happened to your locking mechanism. It almost looks as though someone had a broken cable and tried to unlack the mechanism from the bottom of the car...and ground the starter to the lock. That thing looks like it melted ! And for an unrestored car who's engine bay looks so good....


Bill

 

[DNK]

I have added mutiple cable clamps for ease of my mind. don't ask me why I do this. It has ended up costing me thousands and the car off the road for 8 years.
don

 

[Andy Blackley]

Bill: Naw it aint that bad. The DPO used a bit of wire to "secure" the heater control cable to the bonnet lock. The lock and its cable are OK, just unrestored, i.e. grungy. One of those little things I need to get to. Perhaps I'll put it to rights when I install the emerg. release like yours.

 

[Guest]

Oh good. I changed the resolution on my screen and can see that it is just a bit of rusty wire. If that car is unrestored, you got a lot to work with. Good luck...


Bill

 

[Andy Blackley]

Heres another view from a different angle. Note the DPO installed heater valve. It works great. The cable attachments needs to be sorted however...
This car came from Texas to Ohio about 12 years ago, where it languished at the hands of the DPO. But it is practically rust free and very suitable as a daily driver. One of these days it will get the full treatment.
Heres me last summer on the way to work: https://www.britishcarforum.com/ubbthreads/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/2065/cat/517

 

[TR4nut]

Possibly offtopic, but there is a TR250 on ebay right now - the pics show the release cable going to the passenger side, just like the routing on my TR4. Just curious if the 250 had a couple of different options on the hood release.

I've attached a pic of showing the release, it is ebay item
4630132445

Randy

 

[TR4nut]

Oops, here's the pic
Randy

 

[vettedog72]

I saw an emergency hood release kit made of stainless steel for ~$12 when looking through one of the references made on another thread. It looked good and with all the talk about the cable breaking, I am getting cold feet in continuing with the my OEM with one broken ear on the handle. But now, I can't find the reference. Any body else see the ad?

 

[TR4nut]

Mark Macy sells em - https://www.macysgarage.com