Opinions on 1953 Austin-Healey

[vmg]

Hi guys:

I am new here and to Austin Healeys, but not new to British cars, as I have 3 or 4 Jags and an MGB.

I recently commited to purchase a 1953 Austin Healey 100, which seems to have an older not fully correct restoration but I would love to have your opinion on the car, to see what I need to correct and which parts to source.

The car hasn't run in about 25 years, and though white now, it shows in some spots that it was red, paint is falling down, and unfortunately it shows some fiberglass patches in the firewall or engine bay. Also, it has vynil interior, instead of leather... yes, you got it, a typical poor 1980s job.

As for id, I can't find the car's plate or engine plate... but papers show it as SERIAL NO: 1B139019, and same numbers for chassis and engine.

I understand that number renders is a 1953 model.

I will be posting a few pictures by areas with a few questions, hoping it will be easier to assess condition that way and asking for your opinion on it... and please, whatever does not seem correct, let me know. I would love to know how the car really is, what is missing, etc, in order to do a correct restoration on it.

Thanks for your help,
Victor

 

[vmg]

EXTERIOR

The car's body work appears to be great, with no apparent rust whatsoever. Only concern is the firewall (more on that later), but the rest really looks flawless, though urgently needing a new paint job. The white paint is falling in pieces... and in some spots like the trunk interior, it shows the car may have been red at some point. I am not too fond of bright red cars.... but I am of burgundy or marroon, so if the car was this color, it may go back to it. Otherwise it could stay in old english white.

I will be numbering questions, for easier reference:

1. Tail lights. I have seen some 1953 car pics that do not show the upper tail lights (the added ones onthe body) but only the lower lights. What should a 1953 car use? Can anybody elaborate here?

2. Trunk emblem. I have seen the older cars with a "Austin of England" emblem, but mine shows the Austin-Healey emblem.

3. Trunk handle. I believe it should be different and there should be a moulding or escutcheon there.

4. License plate light. I have no idea if the used them or not, but in this case it is a unit behind the bumper! No way it would light anything but the floor.

5. Grill emblem... yes, it is inverted. Should it be painted red on the inside?

Any other areas that I should be concerned about?

 

[vmg]

INTERIOR

6. Vynil. Older restoration, with vynil seats. Door cards and a few parts look rather well made... not sure if original or not.

7. Instruments. It shows two type of large instruments and two types of small instruments. I believe the large type would have to be the black and silver instrument (tach in my case) and in the smaller one the Smiths brand (the dual gage on the left in my case).

8. Steering wheel is covered, and I am assuming it may not have been that way. It is missing something there,maybe turn signal switch?

9. Wrong switches and pulls in the instrument area. Also ignition switch.

 

[vmg]

ENGINE

10. Engine is missing a number plate (shows to blown rivets in the area where I believe it should have been), but looks rather complete and correct.

11. I have seen engines in a ligher almost metallic looking green... or is the color it has correct?

12. It hasn't run in 25 years or more, and the oil does not look great... some either metallic or muddy marks at the end of the oil dipstick, so I am assuming it may need rebuilt.

13. From pics I have seen, generator should be engine color and probably a Bosch regulator is not what was used originally... and by the way...

14. Wiring harness may need replacement for a correct one!

 

[vmg]

ENGINE BAY

This may be the worst part. It shows no id plate, but the things that worries me most is some fiberglass patches... isolation from heat? I have not been able to look into details yet.

 

[vmg]

TRUNK AREA

Finally, trunk. It seems to be ok, missing the spare tire, jack or any tools. It is fully carpeted with an ugly carpet and not the original type British materials.

 

[vmg]

Those are my questions/comments and pictures so far. I don't really don't know more on the car.

By the way, the car is in Mexico and could have been assembled here (not saying it actually was), as many British and Italian smaller or medium brands were during the late 50's and early 60's, surely from knockdown or kits, pre asembled in their factories but finished locally with local carpets and a few more minor differences. I am not sure it was in fact assembled here, but there is the chance... Jaguars, MG, Alfa, Fiat, and even Mercedes, were assembled down here for a time, before the law changed and they all left because of a new tougher requirement of locally made parts, in 1964-65. Long story...

Anyways... that is the car I am purchasing. I will appreciate any advice on it!

Thanks,
Victor

 

[pan]

G'day Victor, welcome to this forum and to Austin-Healey 100 ownership. I have looked at your description and the many photos. Where do we start?! Firstly, the engine number is correct for an October '53 built 100 but that should not match the chassis number. Originally the chassis number was on a plate attached to top of the RH chassis rail (passenger side for LH steer car like this one) near the bracket that mounts the RH Steer brake master cylinder. If the plate is missing you could obtain the correct number from the British Motor Industry Heritage Trust. Going by the engine number the chassis number would be in the 140XXX range. Unified engine/chassis numbers were introduced in August 1954. Another way to date the car is from the body number. You will find this on a small plate attached to the engine bulkhead near where the Lucas voltage regulator was mounted. (The Bosch item is incorrect) Also various parts were stamped with the body number: the bonnet (hood) the cockpit surrounds and the trunk-lid on the tab where the support rod attaches.
The reflector pods (which seem to house separate indicator lights) were introduced in August '54, as was the 'Austin-Healey' script on the trunk-lid.
Trunk handle is incorrect, I think that one is from a Triumph TR4 except that it has no key-hole. The license plate light was mounted on a bracket welded to the inside of the bumper bar. This one seems to be mounted on the body. As noted the grille emblem is inverted. They originally had a red fill in the digits. In the engine bay the fan is incorrect, it should be a cast alloy fan, and the engine is indeed the wrong colour. The fuel pipe linking the two carbs is missing, and the choke cable anchor is incorrect. The bonnet prop rod should be held in a rubber clip on the radiator mount bracket. The fresh air tube and air cleaners are missing.
On the interior, the two main instruments are incorrect, the speedo looks like one from a 100-Six or later, the tacho looks like a Sprite item. (The Sprite's tacho was mechanically driven from a reduction gearbox mounted on the rear of the dynamo. Later Sprites had electronic instrument.) The dashboard switches are all wrong and have been placed incorrectly. The dash itself should not be vinyl covered. The steering wheel centre seems to lack the trafficator switch. The boot (trunk) trim should be a cloth called Armacord, not carpet, the spare wheel should be housed on the shelf above the rear axle and protrude into the cockpit, covered with a vinyl pocket.
The gearbox interests me. The position of the shift lever makes me wonder if it is a BN2 or later gearbox. The BN1 had a four speed with 1st gear blanked off, and the shift pattern was opposite to the later BN2. Originally the clutch mechanism was mechanical, if the clutch has hydraulics, the gearbox is from a BN4 or later model.
All the Austin-Healey 100 cars were assembled at Longbridge with bodies built by Jensen. No CKD kits were exported, although some 100-Sixes were assembled in South Africa and thousands of Sprites were built in Australia from CKD kits.
I hope this helps, please feel free to ask for more details.
Cheers,
Alwyn

 

[Bob_Spidell]

Alwyn got the main points. My quick take (I own a '56 Healey 100M that was mostly original when I bought it, and I've tried to keep it that way as much as possible):

- Body looks to be in relatively decent shape (door trim especially looks original and is well-preserved). The rear quarter-panels are correct for earlier cars in that the swaged 'character line' does not carry past the wheel wells. The reflector 'plinths' could have been added later, but it's possible the rear shroud is from a later car. Panel fit overall looks pretty decent; check inside the rear wheel wells as the 'dogleg' may have been repaired or replaced. TBH, the body looks almost TOO good, if you strip the car there may considerable body filler (at least, my car had a lot but the body looked good before we sandblasted it).

- There's no other apparent water damage, so the water in the oil may indicate a blown head gasket or, possibly, a cracked head (it's not uncommon for the Hundred heads to crack between the #2 and #3 cylinders; repair is possible but an aftermarket alloy head may be preferable). The black goop coming out from under the head near the distributor may have been an attempt to stop a leak, Check your coolant for oil floating on the surface.

- Engine compartment looks scary; yes, the cars can turn the cockpit into a sauna, but fiberglass insulation is over-the-top. A new wiring harness is in order and, unfortunately quality voltage regulators are hard to find and look nothing like original.

Attached find a photo of what I believe to be an original boot handle, and a shot showing the correct VR and fan.

 

[Guido36]

I too own a 1953 100 and I suspect that this is the one has been at Beverly Hills Car Club for some time. I have visited and looked at Healeys there on a couple of occasions. As these cars can easily turn into a money pit very quickly and the cost of refurbishing can very quickly exceed any market value I would highly recommend a full inspection and report by an acknowledged Austin Healey expert - Russ Thompson at Thompson British in Northridge, California would be a good choice. This would be my first investment before committing to a purchase.

 

[vmg]

G'day Victor, welcome to this forum and to Austin-Healey 100 ownership. I have looked at your description and the many photos. Where do we start?! Firstly, the engine number is correct for an October '53 built 100 but that should not match the chassis number. Originally the chassis number was on a plate attached to top of the RH chassis rail (passenger side for LH steer car like this one) near the bracket that mounts the RH Steer brake master cylinder. If the plate is missing you could obtain the correct number from the British Motor Industry Heritage Trust. Going by the engine number the chassis number would be in the 140XXX range. Unified engine/chassis numbers were introduced in August 1954. Another way to date the car is from the body number. You will find this on a small plate attached to the engine bulkhead near where the Lucas voltage regulator was mounted. (The Bosch item is incorrect) Also various parts were stamped with the body number: the bonnet (hood) the cockpit surrounds and the trunk-lid on the tab where the support rod attaches.
The reflector pods (which seem to house separate indicator lights) were introduced in August '54, as was the 'Austin-Healey' script on the trunk-lid.
Trunk handle is incorrect, I think that one is from a Triumph TR4 except that it has no key-hole. The license plate light was mounted on a bracket welded to the inside of the bumper bar. This one seems to be mounted on the body. As noted the grille emblem is inverted. They originally had a red fill in the digits. In the engine bay the fan is incorrect, it should be a cast alloy fan, and the engine is indeed the wrong colour. The fuel pipe linking the two carbs is missing, and the choke cable anchor is incorrect. The bonnet prop rod should be held in a rubber clip on the radiator mount bracket. The fresh air tube and air cleaners are missing.
On the interior, the two main instruments are incorrect, the speedo looks like one from a 100-Six or later, the tacho looks like a Sprite item. (The Sprite's tacho was mechanically driven from a reduction gearbox mounted on the rear of the dynamo. Later Sprites had electronic instrument.) The dashboard switches are all wrong and have been placed incorrectly. The dash itself should not be vinyl covered. The steering wheel centre seems to lack the trafficator switch. The boot (trunk) trim should be a cloth called Armacord, not carpet, the spare wheel should be housed on the shelf above the rear axle and protrude into the cockpit, covered with a vinyl pocket.
The gearbox interests me. The position of the shift lever makes me wonder if it is a BN2 or later gearbox. The BN1 had a four speed with 1st gear blanked off, and the shift pattern was opposite to the later BN2. Originally the clutch mechanism was mechanical, if the clutch has hydraulics, the gearbox is from a BN4 or later model.
All the Austin-Healey 100 cars were assembled at Longbridge with bodies built by Jensen. No CKD kits were exported, although some 100-Sixes were assembled in South Africa and thousands of Sprites were built in Australia from CKD kits.
I hope this helps, please feel free to ask for more details.
Cheers,
Alwyn

Thank you, Alwyn!! Incredibly detailed answer and really very helpful!

Good to know on the October 1953 engine date... and I will look for the plate on the top of the RH chassis member, and plates or references to body number.

How can I get the info from the British Motor Industry Heritage Trust? Sounds interesting to have!

So, those reflectors with turn signals were probably added to "update" the car a bit, same as the Austin Healey emblem, trunk handle, etc. The car was probably restored around the 1970s-80s and that is when those "conversions" plus the electrical components may have been changed.

I am taking notes of all your comments and will correct them in due time. On the gearbox, I remember moving the lever by hand and only found the 3 gears plus reverse.... so I am hoping it may be the correct one, but will check on that when I get the car.

Thanks a lot for all your comments.
Victor

 

[vmg]

Th

Alwyn got the main points. My quick take (I own a '56 Healey 100M that was mostly original when I bought it, and I've tried to keep it that way as much as possible):

- Body looks to be in relatively decent shape (door trim especially looks original and is well-preserved). The rear quarter-panels are correct for earlier cars in that the swaged 'character line' does not carry past the wheel wells. The reflector 'plinths' could have been added later, but it's possible the rear shroud is from a later car. Panel fit overall looks pretty decent; check inside the rear wheel wells as the 'dogleg' may have been repaired or replaced. TBH, the body looks almost TOO good, if you strip the car there may considerable body filler (at least, my car had a lot but the body looked good before we sandblasted it).

- There's no other apparent water damage, so the water in the oil may indicate a blown head gasket or, possibly, a cracked head (it's not uncommon for the Hundred heads to crack between the #2 and #3 cylinders; repair is possible but an aftermarket alloy head may be preferable). The black goop coming out from under the head near the distributor may have been an attempt to stop a leak, Check your coolant for oil floating on the surface.

- Engine compartment looks scary; yes, the cars can turn the cockpit into a sauna, but fiberglass insulation is over-the-top. A new wiring harness is in order and, unfortunately quality voltage regulators are hard to find and look nothing like original.

Attached find a photo of what I believe to be an original boot handle, and a shot showing the correct VR and fan.

Thank you, Bob!, and thanks for the pics!

Yes, I believe body is mostly in very good condition... paint is falling apart, but that is another story and I will have to redo it anyhow and may use the ocassion to decide on what original color to use, though I admit I like it in it's current white, though I am no particular fan of whites.

My main concern, as explained, is the firewall. I believe it may be an older attempt to isolate heat. Nowadays I suppose you can use modern heat and soundproofing materials from the inside. I will eventually get to that.

As for the engine, yes, I don't like how the oil looks... I need to talk to my mechanic, but I believe we will have to remove the oil pan and clean the mess, put clean oil, start it, check on compression, and take it from there... but I believe a full rebuilt might be necesary.

Thanks again,
Victor

 

[vmg]

I too own a 1953 100 and I suspect that this is the one has been at Beverly Hills Car Club for some time. I have visited and looked at Healeys there on a couple of occasions. As these cars can easily turn into a money pit very quickly and the cost of refurbishing can very quickly exceed any market value I would highly recommend a full inspection and report by an acknowledged Austin Healey expert - Russ Thompson at Thompson British in Northridge, California would be a good choice. This would be my first investment before committing to a purchase.

Thank you, Guido!

No Beverly Hills, the car is in Mexico and has been here since new apparently. No real Austin Healey experts around here, but good mechanics and guys with common old car knowledge. I know enough to sense the body is mostly very good with the possible exception of the firewall, in which case, more than rust and patches I am so far inclined to believe there was some light gage aluminum and fiberglass added, probably to help keep heat away on the interior. I hope I don't get to find much rust and bondo, once paint is removed.

As for mechanicals, my old timer mechanic can surely check and redo engine if needed.

Thanks again,
Victor

 

[Bob_Spidell]

Thank you, Guido!

No Beverly Hills, the car is in Mexico and has been here since new apparently. No real Austin Healey experts around here, but good mechanics and guys with common old car knowledge. I know enough to sense the body is mostly very good with the possible exception of the firewall, in which case, more than rust and patches I am so far inclined to believe there was some light gage aluminum and fiberglass added, probably to help keep heat away on the interior. I hope I don't get to find much rust and bondo, once paint is removed.

As for mechanicals, my old timer mechanic can surely check and redo engine if needed.

Thanks again,
Victor

Get some Cubans; apparently, they can get anything to run!

 

[vmg]

Get some Cubans; apparently, they can get anything to run!

Haha. Mexicans are sort of clever also, and with good hands! I am hoping I will be able to restore it properly down here. I have been able to do that with some other old toys.

 

[Bob_Spidell]

There's a germ of idea there; with skilled workers yet lower labor costs and, yeah, looser environmental regs--anyone tried to find a chrome-plating shop lately?--you could probably create a profitable restoration business down there. A near-concours grade resto of your car would likely approach 6 figures in the 'States.

 

[BobHaskell]

Thank you, Alwyn!! Incredibly detailed answer and really very helpful!

Good to know on the October 1953 engine date... and I will look for the plate on the top of the RH chassis member, and plates or references to body number.

How can I get the info from the British Motor Industry Heritage Trust? Sounds interesting to have!

So, those reflectors with turn signals were probably added to "update" the car a bit, same as the Austin Healey emblem, trunk handle, etc. The car was probably restored around the 1970s-80s and that is when those "conversions" plus the electrical components may have been changed.

I am taking notes of all your comments and will correct them in due time. On the gearbox, I remember moving the lever by hand and only found the 3 gears plus reverse.... so I am hoping it may be the correct one, but will check on that when I get the car.

Thanks a lot for all your comments.
Victor

Victor,

The Heritage Trust certificate is available from the British Motor Museum

 

[vmg]

Thank you Bob! I will get mine, hoping the engine number I have will work, as I currently don't have the chassis nr.

Victor

Victor,

The Heritage Trust certificate is available from the British Motor Museum

 

[Guido36]

Victor - before I purchased my 1953 100 it did not have the chassis number and was registered on the engine number. I was able to get the chassis number from BMIHT but had to provide proof of ownership - bill of sale and photos of the engine number and the body numbers stamped on four pieces of cockpit trim, The body numbers also are on the the tab for the trunk/bootlid support, the left side of the bonnet and the left side of the front bumper valance where it meets the front shroud. Do you have the batch and body number tag on the firewall?

Once you have the chassis number and the BMIHT certificate you can have reproduction chassis tag and the plastic tag with vehicle data that is fitted to the driver side (LHD vehicles) footwell kick panel - at least that was what I did - but again you will have to provide proof of ownership for that to happen.

Batch Body no sits next to voltage regulator on firewall

Body number on trunk/boot support rod tab

 

[Legal Bill]

IMHO, without a VIN number you need to look at all the parts that are supposed to be body numbered. If they don’t match, walk away. If the engine is missing its number plate, the engine number is nothing more than an unproven allegation.

If you can find body numbers on the panels and then use then to obtain a certificate from the Heritage Trust you will then know what the correct VIN and engine number were for the body panels. Then you can investigate a bit with the keepers of the 100 registry as well as some state motor vehicle registries to find out whatever happened to the car with the VIN on the heritage certificate.

Maybe the car was broken down for parts. Maybe the engine was scrapped or replaced. Maybe the car was stolen. Who knows what chassis all the body parts and engine are bolted to?

Why does this matter? Well, if you are planning to spend a lot of money purchasing and restoring this car, you want to make sure it is legal so that someday the rightful owner doesn’t show up with the police to take it back. And if you ever want to recover your investment when you sell it you will need to have the correct VIN at least. Right now this car is highly suspect and not worthy of a big investment.