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GT6 Early ZS CD GT6 carbs - choke question

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Richter12x2

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I've got a nice matched set of the early CD carbs for the GT6 that I'm cleaning up and rebuilding, but for the life of me I can't figure out how to get the choke disassembled. This is the early style with the bar that rotates up, covering about 10% of the area when choke is engaged, and rolls back flush against the rest of the carb when it's off. I've pulled the circlip and given it a few nice raps with the hammer, but it didn't seem to be doing much, so I wanted to check before I broke anything.

Anyone have any tips?
 
dklawson

dklawson

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I haven't taken a critical look at the carbs on my GT6 in years. They are also the early CD type (not CD-2). If the weather holds this weekend I'll try and take a look at the carbs on Sunday. Perhaps staring at them will refresh my memory about what's involved with taking them apart.
 
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Richter12x2

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It would nice if there was an easy way to attach files, but I guess I can see where it could get crazy.

Anyway, I took some pictures just in case it helps to spur anyone's memory - the choke is highlighted.

choke1.jpg


choke2.jpg
 
dklawson

dklawson

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I seem to remember some books calling that the "starter bar". But then again, it's been a long time so I may be remembering the wrong term.

It snowed last night so I'm sorry but it looks like I won't be digging the GT6 out this weekend to look at this for you.
 
TR3driver

TR3driver

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My GT6 manual just says to remove all the stuff on the end, and tap out the shaft. Tried to scan the pages, but the PC has gone toes up.
 
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Richter12x2

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I pulled the circlip and then tried to tap it through that direction as one because the nut has a little metal tab lock that I didn't want to break on the linkage side, so I tried to pop it through that way without disassembling it. I guess I'll disassemble it and try it the other way.
 
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Richter12x2

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Yep, it only comes out one way. Once I removed the nut and linkages and that whole side of the thing, it pulled right through. Thanks everybody!
 
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Richter12x2

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Oh, just before I get in trouble - do the needles just pull out on the older carbs? I don't see anything to retain them like the later carbs have?
 
dklawson

dklawson

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I remember a screw coming in from the side of the piston that secured them... much like SUs of the same period. Once that screw is loosened you should be able to pull the needle out. Of course, if it's been in the carb for decades it might benefit form some carb cleaner and/or penetrating oil first.
 
TR3driver

TR3driver

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My book shows a setscrew just like Doug described.
 
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Richter12x2

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Gotcha, I just wanted to check. The PO had some '73 CDSE emissions carbs with the adjustable needle on there, and so I looked at the '67 carb needles I had ordered and said "Hmm, should just loosen this screw and pull out" *crack!* Oh wow, there's a captive head and a spring.

These should be much better for learning about carbs without the burden of wrapping my head around thermostatic air valves and adjustable bypasses. :laugh:
 
dklawson

dklawson

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The early Stromberg CDs are very much like SUs of the same period with the exception of the integrated fuel bowl and the rubber diaphragm. I like them and I suspect you will too.
 
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tdskip

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Richter12x2 said:
These should be much better for learning about carbs without the burden of wrapping my head around thermostatic air valves and adjustable bypasses. :laugh:
Click to expand...

Make sure to replace both of these, the ones on there are likely toast. The rebuild kits typically don't have these and you'll need to order them from Moss or VB (I used VB last go around)

Ken - aka Poolboy - is an expert here if you need help. (hopefully this advice reflects that he's trained me well at this point...even granting that I didn't give him much to work with however LOL)
 
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Richter12x2

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The first ones I rebuilt were the CDSE's with all that funky stuff on there. Now I've found the right ones for the car (she's a '67) so I don't have to worry about anything other than adjusting the needle seat and the float level, and making sure the cylinder can move up and down freely.

I did spend an awful lot of time rebuilding those others though, including recalibrating those thermostatic valves to open and close within a few degrees of each other. What a pain in the butt!
 
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