Head bolt fun

update.. I elected to not use the copper spray on a coated gasket. The head bolts and washers came in from Moss. (they had a problem with the threads on the nuts so i skipped them) I installed the head studs, head, and torqued the old head nuts in progressive passes. 10/20/30/40. (heading for 50 pounds) When i hit 40pds the number two stud stretched.I thought i had pulled it out of the block. Then i pulled it all apart (by degrees) i found that it had been stretched and that all the other nuts had pulled out most of their threads. I called nigel at spitbits to try a different vender. Nigel told me he had this problem with grade 8 nuts on the grade 8 studs. Nigel says to use grade 5 nuts. Related a test he did taking a grade 5 up to 90 pds. I have now bought a new torque wrench just in case. The studs will be in Wensday. Then i will give it another go. I thought there was no way i would have it back together for the big TR show in oakville Canada (1000 cars)

That's why I only use ARP studs in everything I build. I had some rocker pedestal studs a couple of years ago that would strip at 20 lbs. ft.
Jeff

I ordered the ARP set today, studs nuts and washers. They tell me their method is to prepare the nuts and studs by preloading them two to three times. I.E. that i would torque them 0 - 50 pds in the normal pattern 2-3 times before the final time. Thus giving more reliable torque readings.

Zott, the Preload method is correct. You will also have two sets of torque specs for the nuts. Using their assembly lube, (preferred), and using 30wt oil. Be sure and clean the studs, nuts, and washers thoroughly before installation to remove any traces of preservative oil that could cause a false torque reading. Chase all the threads in the block, and run the studs in using no more than 50 lbs in. torque.
Not meaning to be pedantic, just trying to help.
Jeff