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TR2/3/3A Steering box install again...the collar with the pinch bolt?

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karls59tr

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This concerns the split shaft ,non adjustable type that TuffTR250 referred to in a previous post. There does not seem to be much info on this setup. Here is the issue I'm having installing the box and shaft: This collar with the pinch boltthat slips on to the shaft.I can line the collar up with the two holes on the bracket to insert the bolts if I have the two hold down bolts on the box itself "out". When I go to install the box bolts the top one will not go in no matter how much I try to jimmy the box around to get the threads to catch.The threads in the box top captive bolt are not stripped because if I take out the the two collar bolts I can easily insert the box bolts. The problem then is with the two box bolts inserted the holes in the collar don't match up with the threaded holes in the chassis bracket? I can get one bolt in but then the other one is way out by.... maybe 1/2". I can use a pry bar to move the shaft over but still not quite. Same thing happens with the collar part inserted into the chassis bracket the other way round? I would assume the 1" collar piece goes into the chassis bracket opposite way as in the pic??

The first pic is the issue I'm dealing . The second and 3rd pics are of the original collar that I buggered up on removal. I might bend back the original collar flange tack weld it and try that. What am I missing here?:confusion:

100_2018.jpg100_2019.jpg100_2020.jpg
 
T

TuffTR250

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I'm having a little bit of problem understanding what the cause of the problem is. A couple of questions:
1) Why did you have to bugger the first bracket to get it off? It looks usable if you bend the one flap down even with the other one. It should not be welded all the way around the circle because you need to spread it a lot to get the steering column through it.
2) Is the "new" bracket from one of the parts dealers, or is it an original used one?
3) Are you certain that you are installing the steering box bolts in the correct holes of the chassis mount. Should be in top and bottom holes of the chassis mount. See picture.

Procedure:: Make sure the inner steering column shafts are not connected. Poke the lower column into the slot of the fender mount. Slide the offending bracket over the lower steering column. Guide the coupler onto the two inner shafts, upper and lower. Insert the two steering box mounting bolts using the top and bottom holes of chassis bracket (see picture). Screw in the two bolts holding the offending bracket to the fender mount bracket. Lastly, put the bolt through the offending bracket tabs and firm it up, but don't pinch it too hard.

Here are some pictures of mine. Unfortunately these are from when I was disassembling.
Bob
 

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K

karls59tr

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TuffTR250 said:
I'm having a little bit of problem understanding what the cause of the problem is. A couple of questions:
1) Why did you have to bugger the first bracket to get it off? It looks usable if you bend the one flap down even with the other one. It should not be welded all the way around the circle because you need to spread it a lot to get the steering column through it.
2) Is the "new" bracket from one of the parts dealers, or is it an original used one?
3) Are you certain that you are installing the steering box bolts in the correct holes of the chassis mount. Should be in top and bottom holes of the chassis mount. See picture.

Procedure:: Make sure the inner steering column shafts are not connected. Poke the lower column into the slot of the fender mount. Slide the offending bracket over the lower steering column. Guide the coupler onto the two inner shafts, upper and lower. Insert the two steering box mounting bolts using the top and bottom holes of chassis bracket (see picture). Screw in the two bolts holding the offending bracket to the fender mount bracket. Lastly, put the bolt through the offending bracket tabs and firm it up, but don't pinch it too hard.

Here are some pictures of mine. Unfortunately these are from when I was disassembling.
Hi Bob
1) I must have got ham handed with the first bracket and bent it. That was the original bracket that was on the car. That was on the original steering box. I rebuilt a spare steering box that I had and that is the box I am attempting to install now.
2)That is the original used one that came with the spare box I rebuilt. They should be both identical to each other.
3)Yes I am installing the steering box bolts in the correct holes.
"Screw in the two bolts that hold the offending bracket to the fender mount bracket." This is the problem. I can get the bottom bolt to thread in but the top bolt(not the pinch bolt) is out of alignment....needs to be moved over about 3/8" for the bolt to fit in the fender mount bracket hole as shown in my first pic. I have tried prying the shaft over to line up the holes but it takes a lot of force and still can't quite line up the holes. I'm doing this with the steering box bolts threaded in but not tight.
I can get both the offending bracket bolts in however if the two steering box bolts are completely removed as then there is ample play But if I do that then when I go to install the steering box bolts only one will go in and the other one jams no matter how I pry and jiggle the box to get the threads started? Hope this makes sense. Maybe the car took a hit at the right front at one time and bent things out of whack.
PS. I do not have the upper shaft and coupler installed as it dosn't look like they would line up under these conditions. Thanks for you help.
Karl
Click to expand...
 
TR3driver

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Something isn't right. There are a total of 4 bolts at the box, two that clamp the bracket to the box, and two that clamp the frame onto the bracket. With all 4 of those bolts loose (but started into the threads), you should be able to move the upper end of the lower half of the column around by several inches, both side to side (which pivots the box in the bracket) and up and down (which pivots the bracket in the frame.

If it won't move, there is a problem at the associated clamp. If it will move, but not through where you need it, then something is bent.

Note that everything needs to be left loose until it's all aligned, all the way to the steering wheel. Having to strain any of it into place will likely result in stiff steering or worse.
 
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TuffTR250

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Is it correct that the first original steering box fit ok with no problems? If it did, have you checked the rebuilt one to make sure that the collar around the bottom of the box is positioned exactly like on the original box, and is mounted and oriented correctly? Also, can you sight up from the steering box up to the top inner steering column and see if everything is lined up correctly? Maybe use a big dowel or broom stick to see what may be out of alignment. The drivers side (assuming left hand drive) fender may be bent not allowing the fender bracket to fall in the correct plane with the steering column. It's difficult for me to say without actually seeing it.
Bob
 
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karls59tr

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TuffTR250 said:
Is it correct that the first original steering box fit ok with no problems? If it did, have you checked the rebuilt one to make sure that the collar around the bottom of the box is positioned exactly like on the original box, and is mounted and oriented correctly? Also, can you sight up from the steering box up to the top inner steering column and see if everything is lined up correctly? Maybe use a big dowel or broom stick to see what may be out of alignment. The drivers side (assuming left hand drive) fender may be bent not allowing the fender bracket to fall in the correct plane with the steering column. It's difficult for me to say without actually seeing it.
Bob
Click to expand...
The original box seemed to fit OK. Had the collar was located correctly. I think your right about the fender having been bent at some point not allowing the fender bracket to fall in the correct plane. I might try re installing the original box to see is the shafts line up. I'm enclosing some pics to show how far off the shafts are out of line. This is with me pulling hard towards the fender. I suppose it was just possible for a PO to get the coupler on the shafts like that but you would think there would be a lot of binding and I've never noticed anything unusual in the steering other than the typical play in a steering wheel with a worn box? 100_2022.jpg100_2023.jpg100_2024.jpg100_2025.jpg
 
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karls59tr

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TR3driver said:
Something isn't right. There are a total of 4 bolts at the box, two that clamp the bracket to the box, and two that clamp the frame onto the bracket. With all 4 of those bolts loose (but started into the threads), you should be able to move the upper end of the lower half of the column around by several inches, both side to side (which pivots the box in the bracket) and up and down (which pivots the bracket in the frame.

If it won't move, there is a problem at the associated clamp. If it will move, but not through where you need it, then something is bent.

Note that everything needs to be left loose until it's all aligned, all the way to the steering wheel. Having to strain any of it into place will likely result in stiff steering or worse.
Click to expand...

Randall Any ideas on how to to move that fender bracket over or where to go with making this correct?
 
TR3driver

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I don't think the bracket is your problem. Like I said, the column should be free to swing well to either side of the upper bracket.

The bottom of the upper column should also be free to move quite a bit, once its bolts are loose.

I would be looking at what is keeping the lower column and box from pivoting side to side.

Also, although it has been awhile and I don't have one handy to check, I'm pretty sure the ears that the upper bracket attaches to are part of the spring tower (ie frame) not the inner fender.
https://i.imgur.com/kr3XtrW.jpg
 
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TuffTR250

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Randall is correct. I just went and looked at mine and the upper bracket is welded to the spring tower, not to the inner fender.
Bob
 
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sp53

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I think you will find 3 holes on the lower bracket on the frame; perhaps, you the box bolts in the wrong holes, not sure if it is possible. One of the holes is bigger for adjustment.
 
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