TR2/3/3A Has anyone tried this new steering box top plate

[Got_All_4]

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Home » Suspension and steering » STEERING » TR2-3B WORM AND PEG STEERING BOX SYSTEM » TOP PLATE STEERING BOX TR2-3B RHD

• Part Detail
• Browse Original Triumph Catalogue Plates

TOP PLATE STEERING BOX TR2-3B RHD

Part No:
RTR3075RK

Price ex VAT:
£64.34

Price inc VAT:
£77.21





3 images

• About This Part
• Product Data Sheets

TR2-3B RHD Improved, spring loaded steering box top cover.

This cover incorporates a spring-loaded pin, which keeps the rocker pin firmly in contact with the scroll, thus removing unwanted 'slop' from the steering. This plate can also be used on some AC models for Left and Right hand drive, particularly Aceca and Ace

Customer Mr A Bond commented: I've recently (Dec2011) had fitted the top plate steering box cover conversion I purchased from Revington's. I decided the job was one for professional mechanics rather than me so I took it to a local TR specialists.They're good people but they'd not fitted one of these before and were dubious about the likely benefits. I'm delighted to say the conversion has transformed the steering on my car and equally pleased to say the mechanic who fitted the conversion - having driven the car before and after fitting - was equally impressed with the difference it has made. Thank you for
improving the quality of life when driving my TR3!







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[CJD]

We have had at least a couple threads discussing the spring loaded top plate. I don't remember any consensus being reached, though. Several have used it and love it. Others have used it and don't like it. It likely has to do with how far worn your box is before you install it.

 

[TR3driver]

It likely has to do with how far worn your box is before you install it.

I suspect there is more to it as well.

A friend of mine had it installed on his 3A, and it was so bad that I advised him (upon being asked) to take it back off. The problem is that the spring will compress if you try to actually corner hard; which gives even more play than the stock cover. You just don't notice, because you're turning against one side. So the play becomes more like lost motion; except then if you speed up or slow down, the spring moves and the steering changes without moving the wheel. Proper adjustment will likely minimize that (his was so bad that we could see the Pitman arm moving up and down during low speed parking lot maneuvers); but the bottom line is that the free play isn't gone, just hidden.

So IMO it also depends on whether feeling no play at all is more important to you than having the car actually go where you point it.

Even with the badly worn worm on my previous TR3A, I was never tempted. (Herman van den Akker used to sell them too; but quit.) Once you accept that it steers like a TR3 (rather than say, a Miata), the stock steering really isn't all that bad. Just different.

 

[Got_All_4]

I don't mind the TR3 steering. I think mine is set up fairly well and I'm use to it and I know that I have to be in tune when driving it. That's part of the experience of having one. However at times going down the highway I since a bit of a drift is the best way to explain it. (hoping the part would fix this). Also the wife who doesn't enjoy the experience as much as we do is very anxious when she drives it. This year at the Roadster Factory Party I had just came off some medical problems and wanted her to be able to drive the car home if I for some reason I couldn't. She was scared to death on a test drive. She has driven it hundreds of miles in the past since I first restored it in 1982 when the steering was much worse. It's been 8 years since she drove it and I just did an update on the car for the last 4 years and the steering was part of that.

 

[CJD]

I set my boxes up tight. They have zero play at center, and feel rock steady at speed. The down side is the women in the house complain about the force needed to park the car. To me that’s a win win! Great driving car that doesn’t get taken to the mall every weekend. If I loosened it up it would bug me driving. I don’t even notice the hard parking at all.

 

[Geo Hahn]

...(Herman van den Akker used to sell them too; but quit.)...

I had one of Herman's and it seemed to help and work okay on what I think was a slightly worn box. But then it failed completely (possibly the spring broke, anyway the pin was stuck at the full-in position) and I was unable to get any support from Herman to find out how to disassemble the set-up or if they were prone to jamming.

Unfortunately the top cover itself is modified to make these so returning to original required procuring a new top cover.

 

[mrv8q]

I don't mind the TR3 steering. However at times going down the highway I since a bit of a drift is the best way to explain it. (hoping the part would fix this

I would make sure the silent blocs are in good shape!

 

[Jim_Stevens]

I had one of Herman's and it seemed to help and work okay on what I think was a slightly worn box. But then it failed completely (possibly the spring broke, anyway the pin was stuck at the full-in position) and I was unable to get any support from Herman to find out how to disassemble the set-up or if they were prone to jamming.

Unfortunately the top cover itself is modified to make these so returning to original required procuring a new top cover.

I can vouch for this improvement. I use a lot of RTR suspension parts and this was one of the first.

 

[Got_All_4]

so carry the original cover in the trunk in case the new one jams. I'll put it in the same bag I have my points and condenser if my pertronixs fail.

 

[Geo Hahn]

Unfortunately for me, Herman required my original one as a core for the modification he would do -- otherwise yes, it would have been simple enough to swap it back on.

Looks like the Revington version at least lets you keep the original part.

 

[Got_All_4]

I believe this is a bit different then Herman's. As I recall it was a bit taller and looked like a threaded rod coupler was welded to the top cover with a spring and a brass plunger that road on the top of the peg rocker shaft. If anyone has a pic of Herman's that would be great. Hear is a side view of the part.

 

[Geo Hahn]

...If anyone has a pic of Herman's that would be great...

Herman's may be similar, this is it:

The pin is now jammed fully in:

I could not get it to release. The top cover has an enlarged threaded hole for the spring-loaded adjustor, so I made a new (fixed) adjustor from a suitable bolt and jam nut.

 

[Got_All_4]

I would make sure the silent blocs are in good shape!

What are the silent blocs?

 

[TR3driver]

What are the silent blocs?

It's a somewhat generic term today, originally a trade name for a method of bonding circular steel parts with a rubber filling. Also found in the rear shock links and the front eyes on the rear springs; but what he is talking about are the joints between the center link (the steering rod that runs the width of the car) and the idler and Pitman arms.

I would have to agree, I had a lot of trouble in the past with those joints breaking loose and contributing to loose steering. I eventually replaced mine with SS pins and solid brass bushings (from BFE). If I were to do it again today, I'd probably go for the (cheaper) Delrin bushings offered by Joe Alexander
https://www.the-vintage-racer.com/index.php/categoryhome/steering-and-suspension/product/69-tse-tr3
(Also available on eBay and through some of the usual vendors, I believe.)

With the brass, I added grease zerks so they could be lubed from time to time. Probably not needed (but certainly wouldn't hurt) with the Delrin, though.

 

[Geo Hahn]

FWIW - I used the Delrin from Moss. Made a huge difference in the stability of the steering. Not much bother to replace (i.e. not much to disassemble and the fittings came apart with the usual big screw separator from Harbor Freight).