Wood under from dash capping?

[CraigLandrum]

The pics I've seen in manuals show that there is wood under the from dash capping piece (and I believe the passenger handle needs the wood to hold it correctly). I have no problem doing any kind of woodworking, but the TR3 we are restoring was partially disassembled when we got it and I have no model to use for making a replacement. Anyone know of a source where I can find a pattern or have any tips for what kind of wood to use, sizes, etc? The wood parts on our doors is fairly hard and dense and I assume the dash capping wood would be the same type, but I have no clue what that might be - oak? ash? mahogany? Probably not pine...

If nobody has a pattern, I guess I'll have to trial and error this, make a paper pattern against the existing dash, cut wood, test fit, etc....

 

[TR3driver]

Don't recall the changepoint offhand, but later TRs didn't have the wood in the dash. Probably at 60K tho, so your 59 probably is supposed to have it.

Wood was ash, but I don't know of a source for pieces or patterns.

 

[NickMorgan]

I can't really remember the wood under the dash on my early TR, other than I can remember that it had some! I don't think it was visible and it was there to screw the grab handle into. The thinking over here is to remove the grab handle anyway as it is a great way of removing your passenger's teeth. Maybe you can get away without it as with the later TR3s.

 

[MGTF1250Dave]

Aloha Craig,

I don't have a pattern, but the wood is about the width of the metal cap rail less the width of the sheet metal in the cowl. The depth is about the distance between the edge of the metal on the cowl back to the bracket to mount the dash panel and defroster nozzles. It is made of three pieces of wood, one long center piece with a hole for the cowl vent operator and two curved end pieces. In addition to serving as a attachment for the crab handle screws, the tonneau cover studs and two dash cap rail mounting screws go into it. The dash cap rail screws are on either end of the rail on the under side. I hope this is helpful. Most likely, the original was of dried ash.

 

[Don Elliott]

The pegs for your tonneau cover along the top of the dash are threaded straight down into this wood piece as well. Plus there is a hole about 1/2" diameter in the center for the vent pull rod.

 

[Geo Hahn]

...on my early TR, other than I can remember that it had some! I don't think it was visible and it was there to screw the grab handle into...

I do not recall the wood on my '59 and I am certain that the grab handle (which I did not put back on) was secured with machine screws into captive nuts.

Soooo... you might want to confirm the change point, it may be earlier than 60K (mine is TS47905L).

To get a clue which it is... you might see if the 4 screws for the grab handle are going to find captive nuts (maybe a pair plates with threaded holes) or will need wood in there.

 

[mrv8q]

I do not recall the wood on my '59 and I am certain that the grab handle (which I did not put back on) was secured with machine screws into captive nuts. Soooo... you might want to confirm the change point, it may be earlier than 60K (mine is TS47905L).

FWIW, I'm agreeing w/ Geo on his recollections, and my car's commission number is around 9000 later than his..... what's the number on yours, and is it really a '59?

 

[angelfj1]

Craig: Perhaps this photo will help.

 

[vivdownunder]

Hi Craig,

The timber was a kiln dried hardwood, and with the hot sun over the years, it becomes super-hard wood.

Ideally you need some old dashboard wood to copy in order to get the fixings, through holes and attachments right. The chap who breaks cars at Triumphs Only might have something from a pre 60K car, or a call to The Roadster Factory might be productive.

It's best to renew the wood in the doors too for when you refit the sidescreen brackets, or at least fill all the old holes. Woodglue and matches works.

The grab handle on early cars had four csk woodscrews into the timber capping. Post 60K cars had self-tapping screws into spire nuts, after the timber was deleted for a stronger all metal structure.

Regards,

viv

 

[Moseso]

TS51006L doesn't have any wood in the dash. I don't know where the change comes, but it's definitely before TS60000.

 

[Andrew Mace]

Worst case scenario: I have TS11xxxLO (actually, only remains of same) with the wood in place. If I can remove the wood intact, I could send it to you. I doubt it's really good enough to use as-is, but hopefully it would make a very good pattern.

 

[CraigLandrum]

Thanks for the offer Andy - I may take you up on that later. My current plan is to take a sheet of styrofoam (or a thick piece of insulation might even be better) and jam it down against the dash to create an indentation that will give me the contour of the dash top. I'll then use the very nice capping piece that I have to get the exact fit height. Now all I need to do is visit my local hardwood lumber mill and pick out a nice dry piece of ash or oak or something...