Exterior wood finish

[NutmegCT]

Now that my Morris Minor Traveller has arrived (after six weeks of delays caused by winter storms ...), I'm wondering how to protect the old wood frame. The wood is solid, but the original finish is cracking and peeling/flaking off.

I can sand off the loose spots, but don't know what to use for the final finish. In the UK, Traveller owners use "Burgess Marine Wood Sealer" - but I don't know the USA equivalent.

What say ye all?
Thanks.
Tom M.

 

[Mickey Richaud]

I'd say good old fashioned marine spar varnish.

 

[Mickey Richaud]

And maybe this stuff for prep? https://www.amazon.com/TotalBoat-Wood-Sealer/dp/B01M0MZ89O

 

[NutmegCT]

Thanks Mickey. One thing I've learned from other Morris owners - never use varnish, as it seals the wood and prevents "breathing". I don't understand that concept at all, but that's what they're telling me. They use something called Burgess Hydrosol Marine Wood Sealer, which isn't available in USA.

Burgess Marine Woodsealer |

www.supplyshed.biz

 

[Mickey Richaud]

Thanks Mickey. One thing I've learned from other Morris owners - never use varnish, as it seals the wood and prevents "breathing". I don't understand that concept at all, but that's what they're telling me. They use something called Burgess Hydrosol Marine Wood Sealer, which isn't available in USA.

Burgess Marine Woodsealer |

www.supplyshed.biz

Then, I'd imagine the second item I listed would fill the bill. Seems like you'd have to re-apply from time to time.

 

[JPSmit]

Ahem, the car has arrived and there is no grand announcement, (that I can see) only a teaser photo of a shaply ankle err corner?

We demand photos. (holding my breath till I get what I want)

Harumph

 

[LarryK]

I order lots from Ebay.Uk, or just order from the makers of the product, really the shipping is not more than coast to coast here and mine have come quicker. Just a thought as i have given up on US suppliers who buy from UK then add the shipping to there price then another domestic shipping charge. Had a part for my Land Rover posted here and I got a response from all US suppliers N/A but i have it in my garage in original LR bag from an independent parts supplier innthe UK.

 

[Gliderman8]

This is what I used on my wooden dash. It has held up nicely with no peeling.

 

[LarryK]

48 yrs ago my wife sanded and used polyurathane on my Jag's wooden dash. Been in storage since will need to be sanded and polished when i need it. But, in the yrs following learning more about the old Jags and working at a Jag restoration shop I learned they were sprayed with laquer at the factory and polished.

 

[PAUL161]

Helmsman spar varnish is what I use to weather protect the wood. I don't know about varnished wood breathing, I would assume the wood would breathe on the back unfinished side. As we all know, sun and weather are a finished wood's worst enemy. Any way Tom you can keep it undercover? PJ

 

[NutmegCT]

Thanks all. With advice from other MM owners, I'm going with scraping the surface (not sanding), then coating with tung oil, or maybe a marine "breathing" seal. Seems to be a recommended process.

The car will be kept in the garage - never (I hope!) seeing moisture.
Tom M.

 

[Popeye]

Sounds like you found your answer. If you need further technical support, I have used the folks at Jamestown Distributors for exterior woodwork. Their focus is boats - I don't have one - but exterior wood faces similar elements (minus salt!).

They used to have a wonderful store... thanks to COVID, it is permanently closed, but their phone (real-person) tech support is excellent.

NFI. Their webpage is a great place to peruse nautical craftsmanship: https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/home

 

[Pat MM]

I have a good friend who restores Woodies is for a living. If you’re interested I can ask him about the different sealants he uses. He comes from a nautical background, and has over 30 years of experience but the majority of that has been on boats, so he may be biased…

 

[NutmegCT]

Pat - thanks very much for your offer. If convenient, please ask your friend what he'd do with a solid wood frame with peeling original finish. How to remove the old finish, then how to prepare the wood and what product(s) to use to seal it.
Thanks.
Tom M.

 

[LarryK]

Tom, when I worked on boats we sanded lightly and coated with Valspar varnish. Never had moisture problems. Forst time I did it I was a little timid but when done was confident of repair.

 

[CaptRandy]

If you want it to breathe then maybe Teak Oil or look at Ready Seal.

 

[NutmegCT]

Thanks Randy. The fun begins when you do some reading about "teak oil" -

Teak Oil: What is it? | Popular Woodworking

No wood finish illustrates better than “teak oil” why finishing is so confusing. Brands vary from mineral oil, to linseed oil, to tung oil, to oil/varnish blend, to wiping varnish, to simply wax and…

www.popularwoodworking.com

The mind boggles.

 

[LarryK]

Teak oil was used on the teak platforms and moldings, handrails on boats. Not so much for UV resistance but water resistance. Still had to be applied 2-3 times yearly. Had a teakwood glider once, got tired of trying to make it look good. Gave the wife a gallon of Valspar UV polyurathane,.still looks like new.

 

[Popeye]

Hi Tom, this thread is old, but saw the linked article and thought of you. (I found interesting the difference between "traditional" varnish and polyurethane - the former is flexible after cure, the latter stronger but not good for things that bend.)

Spring Bright Work: Preparation is Key When Working With Varnish | Cruising World

Preparation is key when working with varnish and varnish alternatives such as Awl Grip, Bristol Finish, Coelan, Epifanes and HMG Paint.

www.cruisingworld.com

 

[LarryK]

Very interesting read. We used Valspar Exterior on a lot of sailboats, actually was customer choice, as the high end boater and sailors would have copies of all previous repairs and make sure we did the same.