TR2/3/3A TR3 Dash Recovering

[Mkutz]

Pulled the dash out of the TR3 today for recovering with my Moss vinyl covering. I stripped the old black vynide cover off and got it down to bare steel. In looking at it, it looks like I should just take in in stages doing bit by bit, letting each section dry before doing the next. Any suggestions about how to proceed?

That was the tactic I took with the dash cappings that turned out real nice. When I did the cappings in leather, the contact cement worked real nice, but I note that when I capped the vinyl parts, it seemed like it was much more difficult to work with. Anyone else find that to be true, and if so, is there a better adhesive out there aside from the contact cement? Thanks!

 

[TexasKnucklehead]

Hey, I recently stripped my dash and am wondering about the same thing. Of course, the car I have needs a ton of work before the dash goes back in. I'm thinking of covering the face of the dash in white, with the capings in black and I have black w/white piping seats/interior. I've seen a few cars done in two tones and the dash and glove box are opposite colors.

Do have any pictures or description of your capping covering?

Jer

 

[martx-5]

I did everything in leather, including the dash. I used contact cement, both 3M Super 77 for spray-on, and Wellwood contact cement in the bottle for the areas that I wanted to brush on.

The dash is pretty tricky, but if you managed to get no wrinkles in the dog leg, then doing the dash should work out OK.

I first sprayed on the contact cement on the front surface only and then laid on the leather smoothing everything out. After that dried, I slowly worked around the edges etc., trimming the leather where neccessary. I worked small sections at a time. You have to take your time with this, that's why I used the brushable contact cement for that. Once everything is nicely wrapped up, I cut the holes for the speedo and tach, leaving a generous amount to glue to the back. Same for the center gauge section, and glove box.

The trickiest part is the notch for the steering column. I don't think I could adaquetly describe how to do it. I lokked and thought for a long time, but finally, somehow made it look pretty good. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif

 

[Andrew Mace]

MAN, that looks nice!

 

[TexasKnucklehead]

Art,

'Pretty good' is an understatement. That looks great. Thanks for the tips.

 

[trrdster2000]

Go to an upholstery shop and take a small jar with you. The stuff they use is a lot thinner than your basic contact and spreads easy with a paint brusch. When applied to both sides then use a hair dryer to get the material soft as you apply it to the dash, not hot, just soft. You can heat it enough to streach a bit. I can't remember if the holes for the swithces are countersunk like the MGA, but if so a good bit of heat in that area and streached down into the recess will help it from pilling up at a later date. Don't glob the contact on, a little glob will show up like a sore thumb.

Wayne

 

[Geo Hahn]

...The trickiest part is the notch for the steering column. I don't think I could adaquetly describe how to do it. I lokked and thought for a long time, but finally, somehow made it look pretty good. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif

Looks great. Some kits (Moss for one) have a stitched fitting to accomodate that arch over the steering column. Your 'molded to fit' technique looks better but the stitching makes it much easier.

 

[TR3sharon]

I need to attempt the cockpit capping on mine. Hope it comes out half as nice!

 

[hondo402000]

I am glad the TR6 is a wood dash and staight at that

 

[TFR]

There is a guy who has interiors for sale on ebay. He does extremely nice work and in leather or vinyl. His prices are very reasonable too.
His name is Tim Kruso and his number is 937-232-6262

 

[angelfj1]

Mkutz

Great job! Any chance we can see a photo of the back side? I understand that it is necessary to cut notches in the material. Is that correct?

Frank

 

[Tinkerman]

Great job Art, got to do mine one of these days. Did you use leather on the dash? Did you heat it at all?

Tinkerman

 

[NickMorgan]

I recovered the dash on a TR3 I restored a few years ago and to my amazement it turned out pretty well.
Firstly, after removing the old vinyl, I removed all traces of glue and paint from the old dash and then painted it with red lead primer.
My vinyl cover had the stitching around the steering column hole, so that was obviously quite critical when lining it up. I brushed on contact adhesive to both the dash and the vinyl and then laid the vynil on the floor making sure that it was stretched flat and then carefully laid the dash on top of it using the steering column hole as the datum point.
Before pressing it down firmly, I turned it over and pulled the vinyl tightly in all directions to ensure there were no folds. Then it was a case of working my way around the bottom side of the dash and stretching the vinyl into place, then trim allowing about an inch of material to stick to the back. This required some slots to be cut, but not right up to the edge of dash to allow for any shrinkage. I brushed more contact adhesive onto the underside of the dash and once the vinyl was in place I used masking tape to help hold it in place. I used a similar technique for the gauge and switch holes.
Now, I did all of this at room temperature and I would be concerned about using too much heat. If the vinyl becomes very stretchy then it will be inclined to shrink back over the years. I only stretched the vinyl sufficiently to remove any creases or to make it follow the contours. It certainly lasted perfectly for the three years before I sold the car and I would hope that it is still fine now.

 

[martx-5]

Yes, that's leather on the dash. I don't remember if I used any heat on the dash. If I did, it would have been around the bottom of the center gauge cluster. I know I soaked the leather in water and used heat on the doglegs. Those are hard to get wrinkle free without a lot of effort.

In the notch for the steering wheel, I stretched the leather into position using a large socket that just fit into the notch. I massaged it into position, then glued and clamped the socket to hold everything for a day or two.

When I get home tonight, I'll take some pics of the back.

 

[trrdster2000]

Why not cut out a six inch square, glue it on the top part only, let it dry , then glue on each surface at the hole and cut some angle slices, use a hot gun or hair blower and streach it around the sides, then glue the tabs to the back, don't think you have to glue it all at one time. That way you can figure out what process you need to get it right. Clear it up with gas or paint thinner then have another go if you're not happy with the results.

Wayne

 

[Geo Hahn]

... I know I soaked the leather in water and used heat on the doglegs. Those are hard to get wrinkle free without a lot of effort...

I've posted these before but will provide links to pics of a simple jig that can help when you have to wrassle that leather onto the compound curve of the dogleg:

https://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/dogleg1.JPG
https://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/dogleg2.JPG
https://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/dogleg3.JPG
https://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/dogleg4.JPG

 

[martx-5]

Geo, I have have you to thank for that jig and the method of stretching the leather on that dogleg. It worked out beautifully.

Thanks again.

 

[martx-5]

Here's a couple of pics of the back of the dash so you can see how things were folded over and notched.

 

[martx-5]

Here's one more pic of the back...

 

[Tinkerman]

Art and Geo, thanks for the pics and the jig ideas. Wow it makes it look like I might be able to do all of this. Thanks very much. Gotta love the forum!!!!!!!!

Tinkerman