Spitfire Replacement Of Spitfire Convertible Top Frame Seal

[Flatlander]

In replacing the seal in the convertible top frame at its attachment to the windshield, I discovered that somewhere in the cars life someone has removed the pop rivets holding the seal channel to the frame and replaced them with small screws. These screws are too long and do not recess sufficiently to allow for the rubber seal to slide onto the channel. In attempting to pop rivet new rivets I am not able to position the pop rivet nozzle flush with the inside of the track such that the rivet head sits up too high. Does anyone know a source where they might sell pop rivet gun nozzles with a longer taper? The nozzle I am using has a small nozzle taper but not sufficient to fit between the legs of the track.

Also has anyone replaced these rivets before and if so what was the approach you used?

Thanks,

Gary

 

[Andrew Mace]

I can't help on ideas with the rivet gun (but will be interested to see what others say). But I do know that the screws replacing rivets was fairly common. I remember putting an AMCO top on my Mk3 Spitfire oh so many years ago, and it came with the screws. Beyond that, I'll also note that the likelihood of your being able to simply "slide" the rubber seal into place are just about nil. It's usually much easier to fit one side in and then work the other side into the channel with something thin and blunt (or thin and sharp like a small screwdriver if you're careful with it. As always, Dawn or other dishwashing detergent probably will help, too...or maybe a bit of silicone spray?

 

[Tr3aguy]

I have used small washers stacked up between the rivet and the gun to get into tight places when the head is too wide. It gets a little messy once it pops loose(ie washers go all over) but that may be enough to get the rivets in place.

 

[Flatlander]

Excellant suggestions. The washers will work and I see that the thought of sliding the seal on is not pratical. Thanks for both of your replies!

 

[Flatlander]

JP,

In looking at the photos on your flicker link I noticed the photo of (I assume) your TR3 in its initial stages of restoration. I came across a gentleman (old junk dealer) last week who had a TR3 in comparable condition to the one in your photo (maybe somewhat rougher). He wanted $400 for the TR3. It did have wire wheels but it seemed really rough. I am not sure of the title, I think he said that he had one. Do you have any feel for the market for such a car? I am trying to package the TR3 (which I would try to resell) with a Spitfire I want and was trying to see if $400 is too much. It looked awfully rough.

Thanks,

Gary

 

[Tr3aguy]

Good question....mine was in the family so that is why I am keeping it. I guess it would depend on some other factors such as.. does it have an overdrive transmission, is the motor locked up, is it a complete car?

I might be inclined to give him as much, if the body is in salvageable condition...mine looked pretty rough but i knew what panels were going to need replacing after a thorough inspection. The numbers matching part was some of the decision in attempting my rebuild.

I would say check the web and look at similar sales of cars and price from that. But it really comes down to what a willing buyer wants to spend and how much a seller is willing to negotiate.

Hope that helps.

 

[Flatlander]

FYI: I ended up using a rolled pin, cut to the desired length in lieu of washers. Worked well in that it did not fly off after the rivet was set thus making the placement of multiple rivets go quicker. Thanks for all the help.

Gary