rear shocks again

[tahoe healey]

How can one tell if the noise (bonk!) is coming form the hydrolic shock or the leaf springs? I believe the hight of the rear fender/wing is correct for my phase I BJ8. I'm thinking about having the rear shocks rebuilt due to a slight amount of wet-look to the right one. I'm told they should be done in pairs. But I'm not looking forward to the leaf spring replacement because of how difficult you all have indicated it is (frozen bolts, best suppliers and hight problems). She rides fine and sure footed. Should I let it go and enjoy until a problem occurs?
Thanks,
TH

 

[shorn]

I believe the correct measurement for a phase 1 from the ground to the top of the wheel arch when measured at the center of the wheel or axle is 26 inches. 1/2 inch either way is probably ok. 25 inches or less and I would either replace the leaf springs or (based on the quality of the new ones I tried) have the old ones rearched. Although many have said the replacement was difficult, mine was not that bad; about one and 1/2 hours each. But you need to soak the bolt and nuts with PB Blaster several times over a few days first.
If you have a leaking shock, have Peter C. rebuild them both. You might find that the bolt holes have elongated if they have been loose. When I rebuilt my shocks, I used bolts that can be tightened with an allen wrench. I found it difficult to get either a wrench or a socket on the original bolt although a socket would work on the nut.

 

[anthony7777]

tahoe healey, yes the rear shocks can be a pain to remove youll need a thin wall socket to get in there, when i did mine i destroyed two 1/4" drive sockets, two 1/4" extenssions, and 1-1/4" ratch. wrench, even though i soaked them,its a good idea to replace the bolts with the allen key type, i have a set of front and rear shocks pro. rebuilt never used sitting in a cabinette in my shop i can let them go (either set) for about the cost of a single one. anyone can p.m. me if interested.

 

[tahoe healey]

Thanks Anthony. I may be interested. I would like to have the originals rebuilt if possible.
Shorn,altough I have heard of Peter C on the forum, I do not know who he is or how to contact him. I've heard of Apple and Would Wide. Any feed back?
Thanks

 

[Dave Richards]

Peter is at World Wide, I've heard nothing but good about his work, warranted for life against leaking, if I'm not mistaken https://www.nosimport.com/

 

[Keoke]

I've heard of Apple and Would Wide. Any feed back?
Thanks

-------------Yep! bundle em both up and send them off to "World Wide Auto of Madison"-----Keoke- /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

 

[anthony7777]

keoke, yup world wide is the best thats why i send all mine there! but if you want the originals returned you could ask them to do so but i believe what ever goes in gets serviced from a pool of shocks and thell do to them what ever is needed then ship them out that often doesnt mean youll get back what you sent them. ive marked mine to see if they sent back a set i gave them. doesnt matter guz they do a real nice job, no one else gives a life time "no leak" guarantee!

 

[Ed Kaler]

shorn, etal;

Whilst this:

"But you need to soak the bolt and nuts with PB Blaster several times over a few days first."

is correct I STRONGLY suggest that after soaking you give a "do" crank on your wrench. Then re-soak and try a TAD of "un-do" and re-soak. The re-"do" and re-soak.

Keep the sequence up and the fasteners WILL (I have lost ONE battle in 4+ decades).

Ed

 

[tahoe healey]

Thank you all for the help. How thin must the wrenches be?

 

[anthony7777]

th, i didnt at the time have a 3/8" drive thin wall socket so i use 1/4" deep socket that was thin enought to fit the narrow space but as i mentioned i ended up braking some extentions and the ratchet itself ive seen guys grind down 3/8" drive sockets till they fit, you can buy thin wall 3/8" drive thats the best solution.

 

[Keoke]

HI TH, What causes the "Bonk" noise occur??--Keoke

 

[tahoe healey]

Keoke, I'm not sure but I think it occurs when I go down the driveway to the street (we have a shallow dip for water run-off) or on bumps in the road. I'm putting her up on blocks to have a look at the shocks and all, this afternoon and tomorrow. I'll put some PB blaster to prepare for the worst.
On a Yosemite trip last year we hit some railroad tracks hard due to poor road repairs. (It was a detour road the day the Mariposa (?) had the big slide and closed) Thats when I first stated hearing it.
It may be hiting the rubber axle stop. How much clearence should it have?
TH

 

[tahoe healey]

Well, I think I've found the problem. I could wiggle the shock with only a small amount of pressure. The bolts were loose. There doesn't appear to be a leak on the shock. There is resistance to moving the arm up and down but I'm not sure how to test it? The mounting holes don't appear to be out of round. I'm thinking I might try larger diameter mounting bolts???
TH

 

[shorn]

The rear shocks seem to loosen easily. I check mine every time I change the oil or lube the car, maybe more frequently. The shocks (aluminum??) themselves compress by the bolt holes which causes them to loosen. Also since it is difficult to get a socket on the bolt, it is possible that they never actually get tight enough. My advice, check them frequently and use the allen head bolts so that you can really tighten them up.

 

[tahoe healey]

That was it!!! Cleaned and tightened every thing. New lock washers and some lock tight. Took it for a test drive and it was quiet. I have some tube sockets that came with my XK140 that I "forget" to put in the car with I sold it. Boy, I like fixes that don't cost anything.
Thanks to everyone.

 

[GregW]

I wonder if using a 12 point bolt would be a good move here. I believe they use a socket 2 sizes smaller. You’d probably need a good fat washer to help distribute the load.

 

[Dave Russell]

I use socket head cap screws with hardened washers next to the aluminum. The washers keep the bolts from embedding/compressing in the soft aluminum. I think this embedding is the real cause of the bolts loosening. When you think about it, the short bolts don't have enough pre-load stretch to take up the slack if the bolts embed at all, even a couple of thousandths. Same on the front shocks.

When I got my rebuilt shocks from Peter, the mounting ears had been fitted with steel sleeve inserts that have a snug fit on the bolts. I don't know if Peter sleeves all of the shock mount holes or just the ones that are seriously worn. In any event, I think it helps a lot. Prevents embedding & shock movement on the bolts. There is a lot of force at work to move the shocks on their mounts. Every little bit helps.

I check the mounts for tight once in a while, but have never had to tighten them.
D