MGB MGB rear tube shocks...which ones?

[davester]

My '71 MGBGT has an old Moss tube shock conversion. A problem with that conversion is that the original shocks that came with it were far too stiff and result in a horrible ride, which I've suffered with for donkey's years. There were some websites that had recommended replacements for those and Moss has changed the shock they ship with the conversion to Monroe SensaTracs, reputed to be a much better ride.

However, the replacements listed on the web are all obsolete/no longer available, and I don't know which Monroe model number Moss uses. Does anybody here have this information (either current shock substitutes or the Monroe model numbers on the Moss conversion)? Also, a good substitute for the fronts would be good...those are also too stiff, but not nearly as big a problem as the rears.

...and no, I don't really feel like paying $350+ per pair to go back to lever shocks right now.

 

[jlaird]

Call Moss tech and ask. That's what they are for.

 

[tony barnhill]

Wait until I get home mid-December & I'll give you the # of the ones I have under my racecar.....why not buy some good used levers for it?

 

[davester]

Got any? I'd also need the links and any other hardware to connect it to the lower shock bracket. Any way to evaluate what shape used lever arm shock are in? The problem with buying used shocks is that they may only be good as cores. At least with new tube shocks I'd know what I was getting.

I called Moss tech support about part numbers. They wouldn't tell me what they were (said something about liability and having Monroe customize a special shock just for Moss). They were willing to sell me a couple of Monroe Sensa Tracs at $65 each. That's not horrendous, but it's more than twice as much as I can get them for on the web. In the meantime, I may have possibly have located the same Sensa-Tracs as used in this article https://www.mgexperience.net/article/rear-shock.html for $28/each, though the part number is slightly different (TS5877 vs 5877-ST). I'm guessing they are the same thing but I'm a bit wary of getting something that doesn't work. I'd like to get some more input from any knowledgeable forum members (perhaps from someone who has the newer Moss-issued shocks) before I go for these.

 

[jlaird]

Look at Peter Cs priceing for new rebuilt, lifetime garentee.

https://www.nosimport.com/shoxcatalog.htm

Sure this is not the way you want to go?

 

[davester]

Not too bad. However, since I have no cores that would mean $200 plus links and other hardware. I really don't see any advantage to it since I'm not doing a restoration. I'd be out a bunch of money and would probably have a poorer performing shock than a modern tube shock, and I'd still not be stock because there are shock conversions on the front. It's something I might ponder in the future if I ever decided to bring the whole car up to showroom standards, but that's the beauty of the shock conversion, it's a simple bolt on/bolt off affair.

 

[Shinsen774]

Take the old tube shock to any NAPA store. They'll help you select the right one (rear shock for late 1980s Dodge Colt hatchback). NAPA shocks are made by Monroe. Mine worked out fine (street car).

 

[jlaird]

I've got real news, the old lever action shocks work best.

 

[PAUL161]

I've got real news, the old lever action shocks work best.

Yup, I agree with Jack. Better ride. Funny thing is, they also lasted for over 30 years in most cases. I've never seen a tube shock last that long. Oh well, just my 2 cents worth.

 

[Tom_Fisher]

I've got real news, the old lever action shocks work best.

FWIW, I just read on another forum that Ferrari has just gone back to the old style lever action shocks on their F1 cars.

 

[davester]

I wonder if there's any actual data on lever vs tubular shock absorber performance. It seems to me that there are about the same number of people who say levers are better as there who say tubes are better. My gut feeling is that the tubes (modern gas-pressurized tubes that is) are better for two basic reasons: 1) Many racers in the day went with the Koni or Spax conversions; 2) Lever shocks ( https://www.singercars.com/4ax/armstrong.html ) function essentially the same way as non-gas-pressurized tube shocks and so have none of the advantages of gas-pressurized shocks (non-aeration of shock fluid, valving designed based on damping needs rather than anti-aeration considerations) or of newer acceleration-sensitive shocks.

That said, my gut feeling has been wrong before, so the jury is still out. As far as better or worse ride on relatively good roads, that is purely a function of shock valving, and will vary based on the performance characteristics of the particular shock rather than whether they are lever or tube.

 

[tony barnhill]

Well, the old shocks usually last 30+ years before needing replacement/repair....that's something!! Figure the cost of new ones amortized over that period - they're cheaper than Monroe's!!!

 

[davester]

Well, the old shocks usually last 30+ years before needing replacement/repair....that's something!!

My experience has not been the same. My shocks were ineffective and leaking by about 1980 (on my '71). I didn't replace them with tube shocks until 1985, by which time the front levers had massive amounts of play causing suspension geometry issues and necessitating putting used lever shocks in (since I still needed a shock to act as an upper A arm) in addition to the tubes.

 

[jlaird]

Brand new ones or those rebuilt by Peter C seem to be the way to go. And in MHO Peters are better than new.

 

[PAUL161]

Jack, Who is Peter C. and where is he located?

 

[DrEntropy]

See Jack's link, above, Paul.

 

[PAUL161]

Thanks Doc, I don't think his prices are bad. In fact, there less than I thought they would be. Shipping the cores to him would be the biggest pain.$.

 

[DrEntropy]

Coupled with the fact he uses seals which are FAR superior to the originals it's ALL a bargain! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif

 

[jlaird]

https://www.nosimport.com/

That link above is Peter C, give him a call very nice guy. Also has parts if you are in need. Tell him you do not want the alum painted. hehe.

Shipping is easy and cheep, use the post office.