TR2/3/3A rear axle grease fitting tr3

[sp53]

Hi all I am not sure how this system works, so when I lube the fitting on the rear axle of a tr3 that is right under the brake drum what would happen if I put too much grease in. Would the extra grease go back into the housing or could the grease move into drum cavity. I believe I put about five pumps from a standard looking hand held grease gun filled with heavy black grease. When I removed the drum there was grease in the drum area. There was no grease on the back side of the shoes only on the front side. No grease got on the shoes, but there was plenty right between the axle and the case also.
steve

 

[Geo Hahn]

There are 2 seals in play. One is in the hub and keeps the grease from getting into the brakes, etc.

The other seal is in the diff on the axle and keeps diff oil from finding its way to the hub and perhaps on to the brakes, etc.

The seal in the axle is an easy fix, the one in the hub is more of a bother as the hub must be separated to replace it.

If you indeed are seeing grease (and not diff oil) in the drum then I suspect it is the hub seal that is letting you down (though in that case one would certainly replace both).

 

[sp53]

Thanks Geo for your note, it is definitely grease and not diff oil. I probably put too much in and pushed it right by the old seal.
steve

 

[MGTF1250Dave]

Aloha Steve,

Hopefully the seal isn't damaged and you sqeezed some extra grease by it. After you clean it up, you migh get a little grease oozing out when it heats up to operating temperature. Let's be optimistic that is the last of the grease you see there.

 

[CJD]

Unless you do a lot of deep water forging, or the car has sat for 10 years, there is really no reason to need to grease the rear axle. As you saw, it frequently causes more harm than good.

The problem is, if you follow the service recommendations, you are adding a little grease each time, and then a little more, and a little more, and...well you get the picture. The end result is it eventually has to come out somewhere, and the brakes will likely get contaminated.

John

 

[sp53]

Thanks all for your comments they are helpful. I think I will clean the grease up and keep an eye on it and see what happens. I did discover a small hole that looks to be a release hole for extra grease. The hole is right next to one of the lug studs. I took a piece of wirer and cleaned it out. What started this drama was a very near collision with a truck. I almost rear ended him; however if the people on my right would have been a little cognizant and this individual would not have been making left in menacing spot, I would not have a story to tell and I am sticking to it. Anyways I skidded for some distance and the rear passenger brake locked up after the skid. I drove the 5 miles home with the brake dragging because of my circumstances. When I pulled the drum is when I noticed the grease and a frozen wheel cylinder. The brake line also had a slight kink where apparently sometime in the past the line had struck the rebound loop. I did not expect to see a locked up wheel cylinder. I bought a couple of wheel cylinders from BPNW that were made in Italy. They offered an OE for 80.00 but I opted for 21.00 ones. Moss wanted 30.00 for the China model. I am not super impressed with the Italian ones, but time will tell. Anyways making that small 90 degree bend where the line is close to leaf spring on the new line is proving to be challenging. Is there a small tube bender and flaring tool for this?
Steve

 

[bgbassplyr]

Harbor Fright has a tube bender that will make the 90 for, ISTR, under $10.