Rear axle [final drive] tools or information

[Marty]

I am interested in being able to properly set up and check rear axles, primarily for MGBs, but perhaps for others too. I am not at all interested in some alternate methods of doing these tasks, as I am a by-the-book fellow with a thorough dislike of cutting corners.
Thus I am interested in aquiring or recreating the special tools needed. These are described and illustrated in the factory shop manual. A number of them could be made (and I have already made 2) but for at least two there are certain critical dimensions that I cannot find. There are these step-blocks for setting a dial indicator to a zero setting for particular models of axle. I need the block, or the dimensions to make the block. In addition there is a dummy pinion and I need the head dimensions of this. And perhaps a few other dimensions that are critical. I am willing to buy the tools if they can be found but all efforts to do so have turned up nothing. VL Churchill which made the original tools have long since ceased making them, as I got their catalog years ago (I have been working on this particular back burner project for a long time).
Any ideas?

 

[Steve_S]

PM sent.

 

[JerryB]

I would suggest that unless your are going to do a number of a specific diffs that are the same make that require new ring and pinions that you just might be wasting your time.

You need a set of slip on bearings with the i.d.'s ground so as to be a push fit on the carier and on the pinion shafts. You need a set for every different diff. that U will be working on. Also you will need a selection of different shim thicknesses and sizes....many of which are no longer sold or serviced and will have to be either scrounged or made....to say nothing of crush sleeves.

But if you must....and assuming you will be working on pre CNC made stuff that has been gear hobbed and the markings etched, you only need a dial indicator ( 1/2" travel x.001") and magnetic stand, a 1.000" square ground steel bar and a depth gage to read housing saddle bearing to pinion head dimensions and an inch pound 1/4"drive finger slot torque wrench and a tube of prussian blue paste.

And of course a good press and bearing removal shoes and install rings.....

 

[DrEntropy]

This may be a bit naive of me, but I thought I saw someplace recently that offered crush-tubes for MGB rears? Or are they just the same 'grade' of white-box junk we've come to expect?

 

[SilentUnicorn]

whats really needed is a print for the crush tubes...that would be nice.

"1/4"drive finger slot torque wrench" wonder what that looks like?


mark

 

[JerryB]

""""offered crush-tubes for MGB rears? """

Doc....I'm not that familiar with some of the B housings/diffs but I think in one style they use a solid spacer and shims......but of course crush sleeves can be made.....tubing and necking.....I can see making one...but certainly not making five or 10 and especially for more than one size....

""""but perhaps for others too""" as Marty writes....

"""""whats really needed is a print for the crush tubes...that would be nice. """

Well yes...that wud help. Along with the hardness so as to retain the crush. Making the first one will take quite a bit of time as you'll prolly destroy 3 or 4 getting the right neck sizing for the proper crush resistance.

"""""""1/4"drive finger slot torque wrench" wonder what that looks like?"""""

Think of a beam torque wrench that is about 6 to 8" long and instead of a handle it has a ring (or a ball depending on the model)....you put your finger in the ring and use a 1/4" drive adapter and a large socket for the pinion nut, revolve the wrench and read the torque, tightening the pinion nut and rechecking..... Usualy the range is 0-60 " # or so.

What I was trying to convey in the original post is the idea of NOT reinventing the wheel.......the learning curve will be steep and the effort expended just in start up will be LARGE.