Problem Removing Steering Idler BJ8

[67BJ8]

I ran into a problem while attempting to remove the steering idler from my Austin Healey.

Good news bad news! I got the 1 1/8" nut off the idler shaft, however two of the three bolts holding the steering idler to the frame have broken off at the head. Any suggestions on how to continue? I have squirted a lot of PB Blaster on them and hit them with a flat bottom punch repeatedly using a small sledge hammer to no avail. I have ordered a new steering idler from AH Spares so the one on the car is expendable.

 

[Legal Bill]

That is bad news. I'll have to take a close look at mine to give you any meaningful advice, but I'm guessing the answer invovles a lot of carefully applied heat from a torch.

 

[GregW]

What I've done in the past is center punch the bolt (opposite the head) and drill the bolt out taking care not to destroy the threads. Using progressively larger bits, get as close to the threads as possible. Then rotate the bolt out. The remaining bolt threads may tear, but they should come out with a pair of needle nose pliers. Chase threads with a tap.

 

[Randy Forbes]

On just about every Healey that I've done front suspension work on, I install Helicoil inserts into the aluminum idler housing. If they hadn't already failed, they are usually loose when I get to them. SAE (fine) threads in aluminum; what were they thinking?

I've never had an idler that I couldn't get off though; I suspect the long steel bolt shank has corroded to the inside of the aluminum (chassis) spacer. Greg's method described above will get the idler off the car for you, but you'll still be stuck with bolts fused inside the spacer...

... lots more P'Blaster (though I think Kroil is a better product for this), some time to allow it to work, and more "impact" on the bolts will eventually get the job done.

Good luck :wink:

 

[67BJ8]

More bad news. I got an E-mail from AH Spares stating that the steering idler is not available. It was half the price that I could get it for here in the states. Also, there is not enough room to center punch and drill out the bolts on the steering idler flange unless I remove some major parts that are in the way. Would I be better off drilling the bolts clear through the sleeve to try and get them out?

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

More bad news. I got an E-mail from AH Spares stating that the steering idler is not available. It was half the price that I could get it for here in the states. Also, there is not enough room to center punch and drill out the bolts on the steering idler flange unless I remove some major parts that are in the way. Would I be better off drilling the bolts clear through the sleeve to try and get them out?

Food for thought. I have successfully removed parts frozen that heat wouldn't touch with dry ice. You can actually "hear" aluminum "scream" as it is contracting when dry ice is put on it and you may only need a little break the grip. I used dry ice to remove a frozen wheel once that a tourch wouldn't budge.
Patrick

 

[GregW]

My misunderstanding. I thought with the bolt heads gone, you were able to get the idler out of the car. Just having the bolt shanks still lodged in the idler.

 

[67BJ8]

Is there any way that I can heat up the aluminum sleeves that are between the frame members to help get the bolts out?

 

[GregW]

I'd shy away from heating the aluminum. Unequal heating could lead to warping and reassembly might be impossible because the holes won't line up with the frame anymore.

 

[67BJ8]

I'm still squirting PB Blaster on the broken bolts and trying to force them through the aluminum sleeves with a punch and small sledge hammer. I'm hoping to get the idler away from the frame enough to get a hacksaw blade in to cut the bolts off and get the idler off. Then I'll still have to drive the 2 broken bolts out. Sometimes I really can't understand the logic behind British car manufacturing.