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TR2/3/3A Outer Front Wheel Bearing

CJD

Yoda
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I just reviewed my old pics. The new stubs I used also had the ridge...so I guess that IS the norm. I did notice that in order to pull the stub axle tight I had to use thick washers under the nut. This is against the inside of the vertical link...not under the bearing nut.
 

TR3driver

Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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That new stub axle has a machined ridge. That is not right and has me wondering if some processes in the manufacture were skipped on your axles. Look at the difference in the ground bearing surfaces between the old and new. The new is much more coarse than I am used to seeing.

Might well be the difference. Originals were finished all over, likely hardened, tempered and then ground to final size (to eliminate any warping from the hardening process). From the looks of it, that new stub has been turned to final size, which is more practical with modern tooling (carbide tool bits, etc) and less expensive. To further cut cost, they only machined where necessary.

But it still scares me that their CNC lathe "forgot" a step.

"Computers don't make errors. What they do, they do on purpose!" - Dale Gribble
 
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J

Joel M

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Just wanted to close this out by saying I purchased the uprated kit simply for peace of mind. I got it directly from Tony Drews for $260 including shipping. If anyone else is interested, the website is https://www.tonydrews.com/Jack_Parts.htm. The same kit costs $387 at TRF and $470 at Moss (plus shipping).

Joel
 
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