New guy, old project, and a brake problem

[Nader]

Hello everyone. I just stumbled into a garage find of a '59 100/6, BN4. It was parked in a garage by my neighbor soon after he acquired it around 1982. It was running at the time, but he started a restoration project which he never finished, so the car has sat disassembled all these years. I acquired it from him a few weeks ago as he sold his house and was in a hurry to clear out the place.

I'm into the brakes now, and have rehoned and sealed the wheel cylinders. The front cylinders have what appears to me a ball valve for the bleed screw. I think the ball is really mashed in there, because I can't these cylinders to flow in my attempts at bleeding the system. I'm pumping the brake, and using both a Motive power bleeder on the reservoir in concert with a Mity-Vac on the wheel cylinder. Nothing's working.

Any way to dislodge that ball? Any other advice? Thanks in advance. Nice forum you have here.

 

[tahoe healey]

Are you sure it is the bleed valve and not the Zerk grease fitting you are attached to? Someone may have put the wrong piece in place of a bleeder. Take it out and it should have a hole on the side of the fitting and another at the outer bulb.

 

[Nader]

Yes, it's the correct fitting. I made sure all the bleed screws were patent in the rebuild process. This one is the correct screw with the divet in the end to fit the ball. I even removed the bleed screw from the wheel cylinder while the system was under pressure from the power bleeder. Zero flow. That ball is acting as a stopper.

Here's my next idea: I'll pull the cylinder, put it in a vice to hold the piston in place, and blow compressed air through the intake port. Maybe enough pressure will dislodge the ball?

 

[57_BN4]

The ball type of bleeder is not that uncommon, in fact the Girling rebuild kits come with new ball bearings for them and mention to only use if required.

If compressed air won't shift the ball, fill the cylinder up with fluid, block off the brake line port and squeeze the piston in with a bench vise. Rag, safety glasses and all that.

Unless the cylinder bores are perfect, have them resleeved in stainless. The local brake shop here charges me about $30/cylinder to resleeve... I don't know why anyone would buy those reproduction cylinders at that.

Andy.
Who is having a few beers and fiddling about with a 57 BN4 that somebody else took apart many years ago

 

[Nader]

Good idea, Andy. And your avatar makes me happy. Too bad I just got off the phone with Moss, ordering a new cylinder. Both my cylinders are affected, but I happen to have a ball-less spare. I'll still try the pressurized fluid via vice method.

I hope my DIY restore is up to snuff. I used a Harbor Freight cylinder hone, and followed it with a Dremel polishing to remove the scoring. I'll know once I get the system properly pressurized.

Thanks for the responses.

 

[Nader]

Okay, Andy, your idea to use the fluid pressure worked. I'll keep the cylinder I ordered as a spare.

Crazy to think that some guy in New Zealand gave me advice within an hour to fix an esoteric problem in a 52 year old car. Thanks, and you're a Jedi as far as I'm concerned. Cheers!

 

[57_BN4]

Hey Nader, glad it worked out for you

 

[Nader]

In follow up, I'm having a time getting rid of all the air in the system. I suspect I have the (front wheel) cylinders installed upside down, since the bleed nipples are in the lower position and pointed downwards away from any air trapped in the cylinder (on the rearmost cylinder of the front wheel). Would someone confirm the orientation of the front wheel cylinders? Does the forwardmost cylinder have the piston going downwards? Flexible hose goes to the angled top port on the front cylinder? This pattern has my rear cylinder with the piston going up, crossover tube above, and bleeder angled down. Is that right?

 

[57_BN4]

Sounds like you could use a factory workshop manual
https://www.yousendit.com/download/T2dlWmdnTXZwaFJESjlVag

Your description sounds correct. When the pistons are fully retracted there is very little space for air to collect in the wheel cylinder. The master cylinder usually traps air though.

Very gently apply some visegrip pliers or better still brake pipe clamps to the rubber hoses of the wheels you aren't bleeding, that way all the fluid from the m cyl has to go to the one wheel. Doesn't work so well if you have braided s/s brake hoses!

Andy.

 

[Nader]

Thanks for that manual, Andy. All I have is a greasy 35 year old Haynes manual which came with the car. Obviously, I could use all the help I can get.

I think I've got the hydraulics squared away, with functional brakes and clutch. Radiator is recored with a performance slant, and I've recently broken the engine loose with the help of Kroil sprayed into the cylinders. Installed a new/old fuel pump, and I'm bypassing the rusty old gas tank. The carbs look clean like they may have been dry from the beginning. I know the prior owner replaced the original cracked head with a different one as one of the last things he did before losing interest in the project. So hopefully no varnish in the carb passages.

I'm gonna try to fire up this old boiler tomorrow. Wish me luck.

 

[Deleted member 8987]

Where abouts are you "in Seattle"? Hopefully you'll be up and running for the next ABFM (if they can find s suitable venue). I'm across the lake.

 

[Nader]

Hi, TOC. I'm actually in Bellevue. I figure I'm at least a few years away from driving this heap, let alone showing it. It's got a lot of needs. Not the least of which is getting the engine running.

 

[Deleted member 8987]

Well, that's better (not a lot worse than Seattle). As you can see by my sig line, I'm one north of you. Week is filling fast, but, if we need to get together to get it lit, I can help.
I'll PM you my phone number.
Dave