Front hub puller

[BillD]

I need to replace my front wheel bearings ('60 BE) and need a hub puller. Any recommendations and/or advice?

Thanks

 

[Trevor Jessie]

They usually come off with out a hub puller. Sometimes (often) the bearings separate.

 

[Jim_Gruber]

Yes it's amazing where those little balls have gotten too last time I had the hub off. Bearing just came apart. Even if stuck some careful taps will drive it out most times. Large socket worked for me from other side? I think that's what I used.

 

[BillD]

That's what I was expecting but the assembly is being very stubborn. The factory manual recommends the "18G 146" puller (a lovely little tool) but that's not going to happen. I'm not enthusiastic about just pounding the hub free.

 

[PeterC]

That's what I was expecting but the assembly is being very stubborn. The factory manual recommends the "18G 146" puller (a lovely little tool) but that's not going to happen. I'm not enthusiastic about just pounding the hub free.

You don't need to be enthusiastic, just persistent.

Whack it!

Peter C

 

[HealeyRick]

This may help:

from: https://macnugget.org/photos/tboicey_comics/sst

 

[BillD]

Great chart. I'm sensing a consensus building.

 

[Billm]

I often use a Harbor Freight 3-arm puller if it is REALLY stuck but usually a few taps gets it loose.
BillM

 

[PeterC]

I disagree with the equivalency chart....


.... suggest ball-peen over claw.


Peter C

 

[Guest]

I disagree with the equivalency chart....


.... suggest ball-peen over claw.


Peter C

Yeah but you're a seasoned vet. Ya need something to pry back out whatever you just beat too far in. Ya can't do that with a ball. :wink:

Besides, claw is a carpentry tool, much better used doing jobs it was never designed to do...kinda like its' older distant cousin...the brick. :thumbsup:

 

[Bayless]

Or to quote from the British-American dictionary, BRSOR (big rock side of the road): an emergency substitute for a BFH.

 

[leecreek]

Put the tire back on with lug nuts loose. Use tire to pull it off.

 

[BillD]

Using the wheel as a slide hammer, it took very little effort and less than 30 seconds to free the hub. Thank you!!

 

[Trevor Jessie]

Congrats and ... Score one for LEE!

 

[leecreek]

You are welcome. Hope it works out for you. Don't lose the spacers and shims.

 

[BillD]

Now that the hub is off, I took off the inner seal and tapped the base of the bearings. In both cases the inner race, basket and balls came out but the inner races stayed in the hub. More tapping didn't seem to help so I'm soaking the assembly overnight to try to loosen things up.

Two questions. 1) Is this normal? The bearings were making noise and would freeze if I torqued the castle nut to specifications (40 ft-lbs)or much more than finger tight. I'm thinking that they were very, very bad. 2) Any advice on proceeding with this adventure both in terms of removal or insertion of the replacement bearings?

Thanks in advance for the much appreciated wisdom.

 

[JPSmit]

You will have to hammer out the inner race - with the hub off, and looking in from the other side, there should be two "slots" let into the back of the hub <the piece the back of the bearing rests again> a big screwdriver & hammer and Bob's your uncle. In terms of re-installing, easiest way is to use a socket that matches the size of the outer diameter of the bearing to push in the bearing (with a hammer) You can also use the old outside of the bearing but it will get stuck, don't ask me how I know.

 

[PeterC]

In terms of re-installing, easiest way is to use a socket that matches the size of the outer diameter of the bearing to push in the bearing (with a hammer) You can also use the old outside of the bearing but it will get stuck, don't ask me how I know.

The trick to that is to cut through the outer race with a cut-off tool before you use it as a pressing tool. The kerf allows the ring to come out easily.

Peter C

 

[Trevor Jessie]

I have a modified outer race that sits with all my other bearing drivers for just such use.

 

[BillD]

The reluctant bearing races are now out. Persistence and knowledge of those "slots" in the bearing spacer was the key. Thanks a million for those two bits of knowledge. I've cut slots in the removed bearing races to use as bearing drivers for insertion of the new bearings. Thanks a ton for that tip.

I'm flushed with success but think it best to wait for tomorrow for the new bearing insertion step. If anyone can think of general advice or simply warn against stupid mistakes that I'm about to make, please let me know.