DPO does well for me!

[Atrus]

I've had some questionable brake hydraulics for a while. I replaced the MC a while ago (5 years) with a new unit and then the car sat for about 4. The driver footwell is soaked with brake fluid. When I replaced it, I bled the lines and all.

Finally got the car running well this year, and the brakes are horrible. They stop, but the pedal has to go to the floor and they aren't really engaged. Obviously not a safe situation.

I want to rebuild all the hydraulics, however, money is a little tight right now. While looking through my many boxes of stuff, I found both of the brake caliper rebuild kits that I had purchased and never used 5 years ago! That saves $20. I then was digging through the 2 boxes of stuff the DPO gave me with the car, and I found a brand new master cylinder rebuild kit, it's in perfect shape! So, there's another $20 saved!

So, priced it out, and for the copper washers, aftermarket drum cylinders, the crankcase breather pieces I need, and the vacuum advance pieces I need I'll get away for $55. Worth it for sure!

 

[Morris]

Does the 68 have the dual circuit brake master?

 

[Atrus]

I believe so - Front are rear are seperate on it. Two lines going into the MC.

 

[Morris]

Are you up on all the tricks for rebuilding that beast? It is not easy.

 

[Atrus]

Not sure - I'll be checking for some online instructions. How much does it typically run to get it rebuilt? My issue is that the thing is practically unused - if it had 150 miles on it, I'd be amazed. It still looks brand new. I am not really sure what would cause it to leak like that - doesn't seem to be at all now. Should I just chaulk it up to it being from sitting for a while? I've noticed no new leaks, no fluid on my shoes, nothing.

I suppose I could skip the rebuild, do calipers/cylinders, and see how it works. At worst, I'll have to do the MC and all I lost is the cost of brake fluid and a few hours time.

 

[Billm]

Rebuild the rear cylinders and bleed the system, the fronts seem to last a very long time and are more difficult.
Bill

 

[Atrus]

I suppose I could do just the rears, thanks for the tip.

While we're on the subject, is it best to rebuild the rears, or to get new cylinders? Rebuild kit is $7.53 each, aftermarket cylinders are $14.43 each. For the extra $15, I figured it'd be easier just to swap.

 

[DrEntropy]

Depends on yer sense of adventure.

Spent th' $15 a side, then rebuild the old ones as spares?

...just a thought.

Usually the cylinders are rust pitted if they've been neglected. To rebuild 'em requires cleaning them then honing 'em out, goin' in there with a pick to dig out any suspicious looking areas to check... If they've any rust scabs they're usually scrap.

Remember: If the engine don't run, you can't get in trouble and crash. If the brakes don't work, well....

 

[Atrus]

You made my decision Doc - I'll just get the new ones. I don't want to deal with it if they are scored or anything. I plan on doing a resto on the car next year, and I want to drive it a lot this year. Can't spend weeks trying to get brakes to work. For $30, I'll get new aftermarket cylinders and if they last me only a year, I am happy with that.

Besides, as my wife will tell you, I have no sense of adventure - I am an accountant, I think it comes with the territory. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif

 

[Morris]

The dual circuit master is world renowned for being a POS. Check for leaks and keep an eye on the resevoir regularly.

Rebuilding the master is doable, but ther are a few tricks, To make it easy requires modifying a pair if needle nose pliers with a grinder.

I know I am the odd ball in this crowd, but I say always try to rebuild first, then replace with new if that fails. I think "new" creates false confidence, blows money, and fills your garage with old parts that you are afraid to throw away. If you are just a bit unsure about your brakes, you will check them regularly, and if a problem comes up, you will be on top of it. Put a bunch of new crap form India in there, peel off down the road, and slam into a light post because you just assumed everything was okay. I mean, you put new in there right?

Pretzel logic, I know, but I have burned way too many times by VB and Moss to think new is always better.

 

[jlaird]

I'm with you. For 30 bucks I have all new ones and just slip em in.

 

[DrEntropy]

I've usually replaced the rear cylinders with 'parts house' units. EIS ones from NAPA, "generic" ones from whomever has 'em in stock. Haven't had a problem that way. Luckily, those cylinders are a 'common' part compared with most other bits. Shoes as well. If you were racing, it'd ba a diff'rent story.