Current draw problem???

[vagt6]

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After a couple of run-down battery incidents, I determined that there's a 2.12-ish amp current draw on my system with the key off.

I pulled the glass fuses on the firewall, the 2.12A draw was still there. Everything works on the car, no electrical problems.

Any ideas on how to troubleshoot this current draw? Where to next???

Thanks for the help! :thumbsup:

 

[Trevor Jessie]

Boot light should be fused. SO rule that out.

Have you unplugged the alternator to see if the current draw is still there?

What type radio do you have?

 

[vagt6]

Thanks, Trevor.

It has a custom stereo system, installed in the console. I suspect that as well. It is fused, behind the console so I'll unplug the fuse and see if the draw is still there.

Regarding the alternator, with engine off just unplug the leads and see if the meter registers the 2.12 draw?

 

[Scott_Hower]

Start tracing brown circuits.

2 amps is alot of amps for a parasitic draw. Something somewhere is getting hot. Got a separate amp that's not triggered by a remote "on" from your headunit? The stereo would be my first suspicion.

 

[vagt6]

Unplugged the alternator leads, curent draw at 2.12A remains.

Now, off to pull the console and unplug the stereo fuse to see if the draw registers.

Other ideas are most welcome . . .

 

[JPSmit]

make a tester out of a 12V bulb & socket with alligator clips on the end of each wire tail. place this a circuit in the place of your fuse - with one it should glow dimly. then start disconnect things from that circuit until it glows brightly at which point you will have your short.

 

[vagt6]

I'm not sure what this indicates. Meter set at "mA":

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[vagt6]

<span style="font-weight: bold">Meter set at "10A": </span>

Question: is this mA, or AMPs????

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[vagt6]

Amps, schmamps! :madder:

I'm gonna zip everything up and see if the newly charged battery has drained in the morning.

I can't tell what amp reading I have on this meter. If it's 2 milliamps, I don't think that's enough to drain the battery. But if it's 2A, more troubleshooting is in order.

Maybe I'll get lucky????? I'll let you know.

Muchas gracias to all for your timely and informative input. :thumbsup:

Time for a beer . . .

 

[smaceng]

Disconnect and re-connect real slowly one of the battery terminal. If you can see the spark, it is likely 2A, otherwise .002A. 2mA is fine for leakage current in a car and the batteries will last for a long time without going dead.
Scott in CA

 

[vagt6]

After all the stuff I did yesterday, I went back into the garage before going to bed last night and noticed, in the darkened garage, that the trunk light was on!

Opened the boot, saw that the switch had come out of it's base and was wedged in the seam and stuck in the "on" position! I didn't notice it when I was checking wires in the boot yesterday. Holy cow . . . the boot lamp would totally explain the 2A current draw! Popped the switch back in the holder and went to bed.

Battery was fully charged this morning 12.71V. Looks like the battery drain problemo was due to the trunk light, I guess. Sure seems that way.

Talk about feeling dumb, stumped by an "easy" fix AGAIN . . .

Thanks, everyone, for all the great suggestions.

 

[Trevor Jessie]

I thought that was fused! My bad.

 

[JPSmit]

Once again, no such thing as dumb around here. Funnily, I almost said "and the problem will likely be something silly like the trunk light." glad you solved it! glad it was easy!

 

[Trevor Jessie]

If you look I said "its not the trunk light since it is fused". DOH!

 

[vagt6]

Well, Trevor, before you confess, let's wait a couple of days to see if the drain problem has really gone away.

This is a great car, but it does have gremlins. . .

 

[tweety]

I'll gladly accept stupid if it solves the problem.

I'm not too clear on the test light across the fuses thing. Can someone explain it again.... It sounds very interesting.

 

[JPSmit]

I'll gladly accept stupid if it solves the problem.

I'm not too clear on the test light across the fuses thing. Can someone explain it again.... It sounds very interesting.

I had a short in my cigarette lighter that was blowing the fuse every time. Somewhere on this interweb thing (can't find the page right now) it suggested taking a test light - I made one out of a socket, bulb and alligator clips on the end of the wire tails and using it instead of a fuse. I provides a bit of draw and won't burn out. I hooked it up to the circuit, it glowed dimly. I then disconnected the other things on the circuit until finally the bulb burned bright. The lighter was all that was connected, hence the lighter was the problem. Basically, I guess it meant that the circuit was complete, power - lightbulb - ground. I found it a very easy process.