Clutch Problem need Help

[Jims71TR]

I tried to search topic but did not find my problem. My clutch pedal feels like its sticking. When I put it to the floor to shift when letting it out the pedal doesnt slide out all the way but grabs and jerks out. Making shifts not so smooth. Its like popping the clutch after the car starts to roll. Any idea what is causing this? Please don't tell me I need a new clutch. I just dumped $2000 into my DD and now the power steering pump is going.

 

[Mickey Richaud]

New one on me, but my first thought is the pedal itself may be binding. Or the return spring isn't doing its job. Check that first, if you haven't already.

I'm sure some other input is forthcoming...

Good luck!
Mickey

Oh, by the way, what's a DD?

 

[CJD]

Have you "topped up" the fluid lately? If you did, what did you use?

John

 

[Jims71TR]

I checked the spring and sprayed it w/WD40 and wiped it clean. I topped off w/Dot 3 brake fluid. One thing was strange was there was brake fluid on the shaft inside the cab. not alot but when I ran my finder along it I felt it. Is that normal

 

[Andrew Mace]

Brake fluid anywhere but inside the cylinder or reservoir is NOT normal. Likely the clutch master cylinder is due for rebuild or replacement.

 

[TR3driver]

There is a good write-up at https://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/clutch/StickyClutch/StickyClutch.htm

Unfortunately the author has retired from the Triumph hobby, so we'll probably never get the promised update.

 

[Jims71TR]

Brake fluid anywhere but inside the cylinder or reservoir is NOT normal. Likely the clutch master cylinder is due for rebuild or replacement.

How detailed is that and if I need to have it done how much $$ would I have to shell out.

Thanks

 

[TR3driver]

If the bore of the MC is in good condition, then a rebuild is easily done at home. Any of the usual suspects should have a "rebuild" kit for under $20. The kit should come with instructions, but it's a fairly simple operation (and of course you can ask here if you get stumped).

If the bore is damaged (pitted or gouged), then a new MC is probably the best route. Looks like TRF has them on sale for $75.

Either way, you'll need to remove the old MC from the car. It's probably best to have a "flare nut wrench" to remove the pipe fitting from the MC, which should be readily available at Sears or your local tool store.

Then after reinstalling the new/rebuilt MC, you'll need to bleed the system. I find that I can usually get my clutch to "self-bleed", by pumping it up, holding for a few seconds, and then releasing the pedal. Repeat 3-4 times or until you don't need to pump to get a good pedal.

Be careful with the brake fluid; it will damage any paint that it touches. It also has a nasty habit of getting inside joints and promoting invisible rust. Personally, I'm a big fan of DOT 5; but not everyone likes it (including the manufacturers of replacement brake components).

PS, while I agree entirely with Andy, I doubt that the leaking MC is the cause of the sticky clutch.

 

[DanB]

I'll bet the pin has sheared off on the fork for the throw out bearing. That means you will have to pull the transmission out. Back to the Buckeye Triumphs site, for another article, this describes it.
https://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/clutch/ClutchShaft/ClutchShaft.htm


Dan B

 

[Jims71TR]

There is a good write-up at https://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/clutch/StickyClutch/StickyClutch.htm

Unfortunately the author has retired from the Triumph hobby, so we'll probably never get the promised update.

That was a very good write-up on what my problem is. Not sure if I can perform the fix due to lack of tools and no garage. Thanks

 

[CJD]

OMG!! For heaven's sake, get some tools if you're going to drive a Triumph!

 

[Jims71TR]

OMG!! For heaven's sake, get some tools if you're going to drive a Triumph!

LOL I have tools, floor jacks, jack stands and owners manuals. What I don't have is a garage. I tried working on the 6 in the parking lot of my apartment and that's a nono. HAHA you should see the looks I got. So I'm looking for a townhouse or small house w/a garage. Then I'll get into her.

 

[Member 10617]

My experience is that no matter what the problem is and no matter how many tools you have.... you NEVER have the one you need for the new problem. Of course, look on the bright side... this gives us an excuse to BUY A NEW TOOL.

 

[CJD]

Jim, just tell them you're setting it up for the NASCAR circuit. Down in SC they'll understand completely...may even offer to help lift that tranny out with you!

Oh, by the way, after reading the article Randall provided, I have to wonder if there may be a way to give a squirt of spray lube around the flywheel to the tranny cover. It won't fix it permanently, but should get you
a few months down the road, at least till you can find a place to work on it. All you would have to do is remove the front flywheel cover and use a flex tube to direct it around the flywheel, just sparingly so you don't oil the clutch disc. Just a thought!?!


John

 

[TR3driver]

I have to wonder if there may be a way to give a squirt of spray lube around the flywheel to the tranny cover. It won't fix it permanently, but should get you
a few months down the road, at least till you can find a place to work on it. All you would have to do is remove the front flywheel cover and use a flex tube to direct it around the flywheel, just sparingly so you don't oil the clutch disc. Just a thought!?!

Could be, but it would be very tricky IMO. There isn't a lot of room between the flywheel and the housing, so it's going to be really tough to see what you're doing. You'll also need some way to hold the TOB in the released position (to expose the cover behind the sleeve). A lot easier IMO to do as mentioned in the article, and cut an access hole through the bellhousing. Use a 1" hole saw (for example), and then a trim plug from Home Depot to cover the hole afterwards. If you position the hole between the ribs, I don't think weakening the housing would be an issue (but it wouldn't hurt to smooth the edges to prevent any stress risers).