TR6 76 TR6 clutch problem

[MI76TR6]

Just had the clutch replaced for the first time on my 26,000 mile 76 TR6 last fall before putting away for the winter. I used a B&B kit from Moss and also replaced the cross shaft,bushings, fork, hardened pin and T/O bearing sleeve. Got it on the road last week and the clutch seems to perform just fine in leisurly driving. However, under hard acceleration there is a slight lag before clutch re-engages after every shift - rpm runs up for a second and then it catches. Does this sound like the binding T/O bearing sleeve that I've read about? Why would it happen with a new sleeve? Any chance it will improve as new parts break-in ? Any chance it's a slave cylinder problem? Your thoughts/ experiences will be much appreciated.

 

[trboost]

Did you have this problem with the previous old clutch set-up. If so, then my guess is the front end cover that the TO bearing rides on was not dressed & has a burr or ridge on it. You can check to see if the hesitation is internal by disconnecting the slave cylinder rod & levering the clutch shaft arm back & forth, listening for a slight pop or release of the disc.
This has become a problem with many TR's as they aged. During a normal clutch repair the popular parts replaced are the cover,disc, throw out bearing & sometimes the bearing carrier. Over the years the front end cover the bearing slides on has worn, either out of round or developes ridges. The materials used are also not ideal for this application. The new Gunst bearing kit offered by some of the suppliers uses a bronze bearing carrier. This material is much better suited for the purpose because of it's self lubricating composition. I battled this problem for a few years until using these parts & dressing the front cover.

There is the possibility it may wear in, drive for a while before pulling the trany again. Make sure there's no binding in the slave cylinder preventing smooth operation. If you had it done at a shop make them aware ASAP so it should be covered.

 

[MI76TR6]

Thanks. Did not have this problem with the previous set-up which was the original clutch. Worked fine until it started slipping. Had it done at a shop, so I did not personally inspect the condition of the front shaft cover, but it only has 26,000 miles on it.If I have to have the trans pulled would people recommend I try chamfering/dressing the shaft cover or is their general agreement that Gunst is the only way to go? Anybody using a Gunst with B&B compnents?
Thanks, Bill

 

[BOXoROCKS]

Well, learned somthing new today,interesting.I am thinking, another victim of a clutch over sell job. We are talking a car with 26K orig miles, and all those parts are needed? Hmmm. My guess is a swollen or leaking hyd rubber part,or a binding in the cross shaft.