TR6 TR6 CLUTCH PIN OR HYDRAULIC TROUBLE

[bluemiata90]

I just recently bought a TR6 and the trans really never engaged correctly, plus the clutch pedal seemed very soft. I just bearly got it home before it would no longer shift into gear. I removed the slave cyl.(the fluid was done) and rebuilt it. I bleed it and the pedal still seems very soft(no pressure),there are no visable leaks anywhere. The slave rod seems to move out, but the clutch does not engage. I figured that the clutch fork pin is broken and there is no pressure against the clutch fingers cause the throwout bearing is just riding on the shaft and not pushing on the clutch plate fingers.
A knowledgable TR specialist came over and shifted the trans into all gears(with the engine off) and stated if the trans can be shifted into all gears that the pin is good and he suggested redo all the hydraulic system. Maybe I'm wrong, but I can shift a trans thats sitting on my workbench into all four gears and it has nothing to do with the clutch fork pin. Am I missing something????.
Is there a way to check if the fork pin is broken or not with the trans in the car?
I did order new Master and slave rebuild kits and will rebuild them again and also add a new clutch hose.
Am I in the right direction or do you think I have to remove the trans and fix the pin. Thanks

 

[tomshobby]

First make sure your cylinder rod is in the middle position on the fork lever.
You can watch the clutch rod and lever while someone pushes the clutch pedal. If it moves while the pedal is being pushed you most likely have a clutch problem and probably the fork pin.
On the other hand, if it does not move while the pedal is being pushed it is in the hydraulics.
Someone here can probably give an idea of how far the rod should extend. It will be about half the length of the slave cylinder.

Edit: Make sure the mounting bolts for the slave cylinder are tight on both the cylinder and the plate that holds it. I once had loose bolts on the plate and the clutch would not disengage.

 

[bluemiata90]

I've already done all those steps and I agree with you that I feel it's the clutch fork pin, but I started to second guess myself after this knowledgeable triumph person said it might still be the hyd.. I will still rebuild the hyd. system and give it one last attempt before I pull the transmission. Rebuilding the hydraulics is alot easier then pulling the trans.

 

[TR3driver]

The TR6 clutch actuation has very little allowance for wear, especially if you have the later .70" bore MC. Before pulling the gearbox, I would check for lost motion at the clevis between the MC pushrod and the pedal, as it's easy for that joint to wear enough to cause problems.

On my Stags, I was able to effect a repair without removing the MC and pedal by reaming the holes to fit an 8mm bolt (chosen to have an unthreaded shank long enough to pass fully through the clevis). Not perfect, but brought the release point up from pressed hard against the carpet to perhaps 1/2" short of touching the carpet.

Nelson gives maximum travel at the slave cylinder as 0.5" for cars with the .70" MC.

Usually, a broken taper pin will be detectable by looking at the slave linkage. The normal position of the lever with the pedal released is vertical or slightly towards the slave cylinder, so the angle between the axis of the arm and the pushrod is 90 degrees or a bit more. With a broken taper pin, it will come to rest with the arm farther back, slightly away from the slave, so the angle is less than 90 degrees.

The dirty little secret is that "knowledgeable Triumph people" don't always agree and sometimes are wrong. That <span style="font-weight: bold">definitely </span>includes me :laugh:

 

[tomshobby]

The dirty little secret is that "knowledgeable Triumph people" don't always agree and sometimes are wrong. That <span style="font-weight: bold">definitely </span>includes me :laugh:

Me too. But that is half the fun!

 

[bgbassplyr]

Another test for a broken pin:
With the rod out of the slave, rotate the arm clockwise or toward the front of the car. When it stops, put some pressure on it to try and move it further towards the front. The arm should stop in a near vertical or approx 5 degrees past vertical position if the pin is intact because the fork and TOB will be positioned as far back as it can go. If you get the arm to much past vertical (more than 5 degrees), the pin is probably broken. I just checked 2 trans and both met this test. I don't have have one with a broken pin to check. If the pin is broken, you may be able to feel resistance or roughness as the ends of the broken pin rotate across one another.

You might drill a small hole or two in the bell housing to be able to see if the shaft is rotating without the attandant fork movement.

 

[Brosky]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Rebuilding the hydraulics is alot easier then pulling the trans.[/QUOTE]

Now that is something that we'll ALL agree on.