TR6 Which clutch master cylinder for a 71 TR6?

[Michael]

I am a complete novice and restoring a 1971 TR6. British Victoria lists 2 clutch master cylinders (.75 bore and .70 bore) and I don't know how to know which that I need. Thanks for any assistance.
michael

 

[TR3driver]

Either one will work. The smaller bore gives a softer clutch pedal, but takes more pedal travel. For some folks, depending on wear and such, there may not be enough travel. Fitting the larger MC is one work around.

Your car would probably have had the .70" originally, but 69-70 (and earlier) used the .75"

 

[Sbardon]

TR3 Driver, I had a clutch master cylinder issue this weekend and 'almost' had to get towed home, the master was sticking at half return and wasn't providing enough fluid do operate the clutch.... Some air pressure in the vent hole and hammer tapping and "click' it returned home... and I got home.... I believe I rebuilt it years ago... but now not trusting it.... and will probably replace it.
I knew about the .70 vs .75 choice, it is interesting.... just wondering if you have any more insight on the choice, pros or cons?
Currently my 76 TR6 has a .70. it has worked in the past, but yes seems to be 'just enough'. My tendency would be to keep it stock...
Are there any risks with the .75? could stroking the slave cylinder farther damage anything?
I have read somewhere that the pedal force will increase about 12%.... ?
any insight would be appreciated.
S

 

[RGK]

Moss and TRF list the .70 as original for 1970-76.

 

[Sbardon]

tr3 driver.... my issue became obvious, tried and could not get a new spring, replaced with same. Works well.

 

[mctriumph]

On a 6 the OE rod is non adjustable. Since 52 years have passed, I suggest retro fitting the earlier rod to pickup some
adjustment to make it sweeter. A 6 can also benefit from a brace as the earlier cars had. Some of the clutches for the
2.5L are way too stiff and flex the bracket.
Mad dog