Clutch problem, a little different than usual

[mk2sprite]

My '63 MkII Sprite with 1275 has dual Tandem master cylinder
Noticed this happening at the end of last season but was still working so far this year until now.
With car running and foot down on the clutch pedal in 1st gear I notice it starts creeping forward and then is very stiff getting it out of gear.
After initial look over now the pedal is soft, has a little bite at the end but won't go into gear.
My first thought is the slave, but no fluid leaking from it or behind the boot. OK, then it's the clutch master side of the master, no fluid there either.
The slave has been there longer than the rebuilt master. Now I'm thinking it's the master but expected to see some leakage at either of them. ??
Mike

 

[Deleted member 8987]

You may not see any leakage from the master. It bypasses internally. Cups have lost their elasticity.

Pedal creep, no fluid loss, unless the mechanical components are failing (and once that starts, won't be long until total failure0, it's a master.
Rebuild or replace.
Me?
No pitting (or light), hone and new cups.
Dave

 

[mk2sprite]

Dave, yeah sort of figured that was it.
It was re sleeved by Sierra Specialties about 10yrs ago so a kit will be needed. I guess that's about what you get out of rubber parts these days

 

[Deleted member 8987]

Ten years is a bonus.
Seriously.

Try Jag parts......had mine six years, replaced some stuff twice already.

 

[mk2sprite]

Hey man don't get me going on the quality of rubber parts.
Just yesterday I removed the headlamp on the Sprite to do some sanding and painting. I replaced the bowl to body gasket about 3 seasons ago.........if that long....It's DONE, total crap all cracked and rotted. looks as bad as some 40 year old one's I've removed. Really makes me mad
Forgot to say thanks for your help..

 

[aeronca65t]

Also look for the elongated holes in the top of the clutch pedal and the yoke that goes into the clutch master (they are connected by the clevis pin).

This is a very common wear point and even a tiny bit of looseness here will translate into a big loss of motion that make the pedal seem "soft" and sloppy.

I've had to weld up and re-drill several of mine over the years.

You may be able to see what I'm talking about ~HERE~

 

[mk2sprite]

Thanks, yeah I know ALL about that. Had a clutch pedal disintegrate on a Midget once. Not the problem here though.
All that stuff is good, just looked at those points last night.
I keep a close eye on clevis pins and parts that can get "out of round", have seen it many times also..

 

[W_Nix]

I am having the same issue. No leakage, clutch operates fine until it's held down (then it gradually re-engages). I replaced the seals on master and slave, bled profusely, and still having issues. I'm wondering if there's a leak in-between the two master pistons allowing fluid to bleed back into the reservoir. When I replaced the seals, I cleaned the bores on both. Wondering if that buggered it up...

 

[Gerard]

It's lasted 10 years because you had it brass sleeved/rebuilt by Sierra. You should be able to restore it to new working condition by replacing with new seal kits.

This service is still available through me. This is why it pays to have them restored this way instead of buying an aftermarket one.