TR2/3/3A Adjustable vs Non-adjustable Control Heads

[CJD]

Found a deal on a horn/blinker control head, but now that I have it in hand, it appears the tube that engages the stator is much longer than on the original, non-adjustable steering control head. So, did I buy an adjustable stearing control head by mistake? Other than the longer wire tube, it appears identical to the one that came out of the car.

And, if I do have the wrong head, is it possible to just remove the extra length of tubing to make it work?

 

[TR3driver]

Yup, sure sounds like the adjustable version. Shortening the tube on the head would be tough, you'd have to duplicate the dimples at a higher location and they are kind of important. My preference would be to swap that piece from the old control head (although of course that means you have to disassemble both of them to some extent).

Another alternative might be to cut down the stator tube from the other end. That way you wouldn't have to deal with slots or dimples.

 

[CJD]

Thanks, Randall. I have never seen an adjustable wheel, and I guess I thought they were very different, including the control head. It appears the tubes are held by crimped tabs. I think I'll try to carefully uncrimp and swap the tubes.

As simple as these cars are, you are always teaching me something new!

 

[TR3driver]

You shouldn't need to straighten those tabs. Turn the big disc until you can see 3 screw heads through the holes, and undo the three screws. Leave the control head face down, while you slide the tube and plate assembly off of the harness, then slide the other one on. Engage the finger with the slot and reinstall the 3 screws.

Here's a photo right after removing the 3 screws


and what you'll see after removing the plate and tube assembly


(I had already removed the other 3 screws that hold the face plate on when I took that photo, but you won't have to do that.)

 

[CJD]

Outstanding...that's even easier! Thanks again, Randall! It's always nice when my Faux paus end up having an easy fix..