TR2/3/3A TR3A oil gauge stuck

[NutmegCT]

Mine (TR3A) is stuck at around 55psi whether the engine is running or not. Never moves from that point.

Has anyone managed to get a frozen oil gauge to work?

Is there a dummy's guide to oil gauge refurbishing?

Thanks.
Tom

 

[Brosky]

When Dale gets done with Dave on their "Crypt car excellent island adventure", he may be able to help you. I'd start scouring ebay for spare gauges. The oil units seem to be the most difficult to find for all models.

 

[martx-5]

The gauge may be stuck because it's gone south, or it may be reading high because there is residual pressure keeping the needle reading at 55 lbs.

What I would do is remove the oil line from the back of the gauge, and see if the needle returns to zero. If it does, you probably just got spritzed with some oil. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/sick.gif In that case, I would remove the oil line from the gauge to down by the oil filter and blow it out with some compressed air, because it somehow got plugged up and retained pressure. Remember, I said REMOVE the oil line FROM THE CAR. You don't need dirty oil sprayed all over you new leather interior.

The last alternative...If the needle remained high after removing the oil line from the back, is that the mechanism and needle itself is somehow binding up inside the gauge. I had this problem with my TR3 years ago. The pressure gauge would go to 60-65 lbs during running, but would then drop to about 30 psi when I shut the engine off. I just took the gauge out, took it apart, put it back together, and it worked fine. Apparently the needle was somehow interfering with the gauge face, and never dropped to zero.

The oil gauge in a TR3 is a simple mechanical device that isn't prone to failure. If something is bad inside, you will see it if you take it apart. It will be some little lever or whatever that broke.

 

[Jim Lee]

I would second all that Art said but also add my recent experience. My oil gauge was stuck at about the same place and just before I was about to go hunting for another one I remembered all the other various and sundry parts that I have bought and then did not actually need and the idiot I felt like afterwards. I removed mine and found out that even though I had an oil tight connection at the back of the gauge the nut was interfering with the needle itself which kind of surprised me since I would have thought it would leak when not being on correctly. All I had to do was reconnect the tube and I have been back in business ever since.

Thanks,
Jim Lee

 

[Harry_Ward]

Nothing more to add other than there's this little tiny washer that's gonna possibly fall out if you disconnect the line from the rear of the gauge. Watch out for it and make sure you replace it whence it came or it will leak upon reassembly.

 

[NutmegCT]

Gentlemen - this is excellent advice.

I've never removed an oil line from a gauge in a dash.

Do I first remove the bezel and lens, and then just squeeze my fingers behind the dash panel and try to hand loosen a nut holding a bracket?

Then pull the gauge forward through the hole in the dash?

Then loosen a nut around the oil line and pull the line loose with my fingers?

Sorry to be so dense - but I obviously don't want to ruin a gauge and/or wreck the oil tube and/or spray oil on everything behind and under the dash.

Thanks.
Tom

 

[Don Elliott]

Down beside the engine - to the rear of the coil, you will find a steel braided hose which comes up to a connection. This is the oil line. You can disconnect it here and you'll get some oil running out. The pipe which goes up from this point goes through a grommet in a hole in the firewall above the battery. This is the oil pipe that is connected to the rear of the gauge on the dash. Reach up behind the panel on the dash and remove the 2 nuts holding the bracket which secures the oil gauge to the rear of the panel. Then you can pull the gauge and pipe out the front of the panel. Even an inch or two will be enough to let you disconnect the oil pipe from the rear of the gauge. This is where you will get oil dripping all over your carpet - so remove the carpet or protect it.

Then you can blow out the pipe with compressed air and work on the gauge as described above. Compressed air into the rear of the gauge - say 20 psi should show 20 on the gauge. Then try 70 psi air pressure and let us know what you find.

Don Elliott, Original Owner, 1958 TR3A

https://mysite.wanadoo-members.co.uk/trebor/don3a_big.JPG

 

[MGTF1250Dave]

I would recommend leaving the lens and chrome bezel in place while removing the gauge. Remove the nut holding the gauge mounting bracket on the back side of the dash. You may want to disconnect the battery first to avoid any accidental electrical contacts while working behind the dash. With the bracket removed you should be able to carefully move gauge forward trough the dash. Wrap an absorbent rag around the gauge and line and undo the nut holding the oil line to the gauge. There should not be a large quantity of oil, but potentially a spray from residual pressure. The other option is to bleed any pressure off by opening the oil line connection on the engine block near the oil pump.

 

[DNK]

The TR3 used a braided line? Sheez the 6 only came with a cheapo plastic

 

[AweMan]

I`v seen oil pressure guages for TR-3`s on ebay from time to time, as for condition I couldn`t say.
The guage that is made out of unobtanium is a WORKING water temp guage.

 

[martx-5]

I`v seen oil pressure guages for TR-3`s on ebay from time to time, as for condition I couldn`t say.
The guage that is made out of unobtanium is a WORKING water temp guage.

The water temp gauge has been discussed here. It can be repaired at home for the cost of about $20. I've done it myself. If you want info on how to do it, I can find the thread for you.

Edit: Here's the original thread from last year where I found out how to repair the temp gauge.

 

[NutmegCT]

You guys are fantastic. I think (gasp!) I've got the guts and references to attack the oil gauge now.

Fortunately, the fuel, temp and ammeter are working, altho' the ammeter sure bounces around when I use the lights or the heater motor. And the engine runs smooth without seizing up, so I'm assuming there's oil pressure inside. If I can find an external oil pressure gauge I'll do a realtime test.

Wish I could buy you all a couple rounds ... but that may have to wait 'til Stowe!

I'll keep you posted. Thanks again all!
Tom