TR2/3/3A TR3 CLUTCH FRICTION DISC REPLACEMENT

[MGTF1250Dave]

Aloha All,

This weekend I'm going to remove the gearbox and replace the clutch disc in my TR3A with the help of my car club. I have participated in the removal and replacement of a TR3 gearbox once before. My recollection and the Haynes manual makes it seem straight forward. I have a new clutch disc, release (throw out) bearing and tappered lock pin for the fork. The clutch was starting to slip during acceleration going up hills (revs increasing but speedo not changing). I've never changed a clutch disc before, but again the Haynes manual describes it as a relatively easy task. Hopefully, the fly wheel and pressure plate will not need any work.

If you have any pearls of wisdom for me, they would be greatly appreciated.

Safety Fast,
Dave

 

[Mickey Richaud]

Hey Dave,

The only tricky part is lining up the disk with the splines on the input shaft of the gearbox. It's a snap with the little plastic tool available from Moss and others. Hopefully someone in your club has one, or an old shaft you can use.

Mickey

 

[MGTF1250Dave]

Thanks Mickey, I forgot to mention that I do have the alignment tool. I post a report next week when hopefully the job is successfully completed.

Safety Fast,
Dave

 

[piman]

Hello Dave,
personally I would also change the pressure plate as well. I don't believe in taking all that trouble to split everything and not change the pressure plate.
Also take note of the orientation of the centre plate. They are often marked up as 'Flywheel side' .

Good luck,
Alec

 

[steve99]

I agree with Alec, if you are going to go to the trouble of replacing any of the components, I would replace them all. I would also take that a step further and have your flywheel resurfaced wether it appears to need it or not. the process is pretty cheap and does not take long.

 

[Bugeye58]

Remember the old Fram ad? "You can pay me now, or you can pay me later."?
While it's apart, renew everything. The slippage could very well be due to a faulty pressure plate.
Trust me, if you only replace the disc and throwout bearing, and 5000 miles down the road, it starts slipping again, you'll hate yourself!
Jeff

[ 02-24-2004: Message edited by: Bugeye58 ]</p>

 

[MGTF1250Dave]

Aloha All,

Well, the gear box is out and I have a new pressure plate on order as Alec, Steve and Jeff suggested. The clutch disk was smooth and shiny, it looked like polished granite and was cracked in a couple of places. The bell housing and pressure plate were thickly coated in grease. I'm not exaggerating when I say about 1 pound of grease was scooped out. It appears that a previous owner frequently and generously greased the clutch operating shaft. The cover of the pressure plate was virtualy filled with grease. The pressure plate face looked serviceable, but because I couldn't be sure all the grease was removed it will be replaced. The pin holding the fork the operating shaft was not deformed, but since I had a High Strength replacement it installed. I also found that the safety wire holding the original pin had broken. I should be able to complete the job next weekend.

Some times more is not better.

Safety Fast,
Dave

 

[MDCanaday]

Nobody mentioned the pilot bearing, I hope it had only been over looked , not forgotten.... On a 3 pressue plate I like to put just a little lube on the pivot points of the release arms. Makes it a little smoother and last longer. AND always when a tranny is out, replace the front and rear seals(if you havent already!)
MD(mad dog)

 

[MGTF1250Dave]

Aloha Mad Dog,

I have a new pilot bearing, just overlooked discussing it. The gearbox seals are good and not leaking. I hope to complete reassembly this weekend. The installation instructions with the clutch discusses using "high temperature grease" on the pilot bearing and pivot bearings. Is this a specialty grease or just a high melting point grease? Do you have a recommendation for me.

Since the previous owner over greased the clutch operating shaft I checked the u-joints. I removed handfulls of grease from the tunnel and chassis. The u-joints were more thean generously coated with grease also.

Safety Fast,
Dave

 

[MDCanaday]

Aloha Dave, just a good high temp wheelbearing gease with moly will do better than anything you could have dreamed of in the 60's. Dont forget to ziplock bag the rear mount,protects it from oil and adds years to its life!!
mahalo!!
md