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TR2/3/3A setting up a TR3 clutch slave


Freshman Member
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Want to reset my clutch slave, the PO had it set up on the wrong side of the mounting plate with no return spring but it worked. I replaced the same way because I didn’t know any better with a new slave when I bought it and have driven it like that for 5 years.

Have now mounted the slave on the engine side of the plate correct longer push rod ( post TS13045 ) and new longer spring for my post TS46XXX car. It works but only after I remove the spring. But I would prefer to make it correct if possible with the return spring

I read a post about “Bleeding The Slave Cylinder” and there were instructions from Yoda that you should bottom out the slave before you start setting everything up.

My question is that if you bottom out the valve in the Girling Slave Cylinder the push rod will be 2” deep and will only have about 2.75 ” protruding once you connect it to the middle hole of the lever arm ( photos using my old slave and rod for measurements).

Slave fully pushed back.jpgOld Rod fully inserted.jpg

I think that may come up short but with find out when I try it but wondering when you first push the clutch peddle does it find a sweet spot on its own?
How much travel should the rod have ?? I know I need to set play in the rod .010

any suggestions would be appreciated



Country flag
Undo the linkage from the clutch lever by removing the pin.
Press the rod and linkage fully into the slave until the piston bottoms fully against its's forward stop.
Adjust the linkage now until the pin can be inserted through the center hole in the clutch arm, with a slight tension against the clutch.

You are now adjusted to zero clearance. We will now add the clearance by unscrewing the linkage by one turn, so release the lock nut and unscrew one turn.

You are now adjusted. Reinstall the spring and you should be good.

If you cannot adjust the linkage as above, then one of 2 things are off. Either the rod has been changed and is the wrong length, or the clutch fork pin has sheared. Unfortunately, if the pin shears, a work around is to remove the spring. Many cars have been driven for many years with a broken pin and no return spring.

The main sign of a broken return spring is the clutch arm is in an abnormally aft canted angle. It may also crunch and grind as you force it forward and aft.

Hope this clears it all up!


Country flag
I have no numbers figured out, and I think you want John for yoda; he is kinder, but we should say the same thing but different. The more I think about the spring and pushing the cuts back into the slave to set things up still leaves a wiggle room, but it needs to be done for a starting point. The spring is supposed to hold the guts back, but the guts can vary--- some slave cylinders have little spring inside to push the cup out and some do not.

I would guess when we are driving and shifting fast there might not be enough time for that all to go back and forth to happen with the slave cylinder and spring workings over time. Anyways, the piston in the slave is not all always all the way back all the time (wiggle room)--- but kinda. Again that is why I push everything back for the initial adjustment—but yes I think they find a sweet spot somewhere in the middle. Heck you can pump the clutch and change everything and then in time that it goes back to where it was.

The slave and clutch will work without a spring, and that probably moves the pedal up a little without spring. The slave adjustment is basically listening for a little click that is about 1/10 inch play with yoke and rod added as one and the whole system pulled back, so no actual pressure is supposed to be on all the time.

So in your case, if adjusted correctly and the spring you put on makes the clutch not work, the spring is still too tight or the holding bolt on the shaft inside the bell housing is broken. What I do is go to the hardware store with spring in hand and purchase a few springs that are the same length or so with less springiness or more springiness--- and try them. If the spring has the wrong length, they can be cut and bent with rounded end plies; this is what I do to get the correct spring. I think you will find on a Girling system with a 1 inch bore save cylinder the spring you want is very weak and just holds stuff back with little effort on the spring. Hope this helps



Freshman Member
Country flag
thanks John and Steve,

Will try your suggestions to see if that works.
Can't get to the hardware store due to the Covid lock down here for a month but when its over will pick up a couple of springs to try.
At least I know I can drive the car as it is if I want to get out for a spin around the block.
I also have a suspicion the taper pin to the clutch fork is bad. Just in case that is it I had bought a new pin and clutch shaft bushings
but that is a bit of a job to do and would prefer to leave until next winter if I can. Will get new throw out bearing too if do it.



Country flag
It will run almost indefinitely with the pin sheared. The fork moves back and locks on the 45 degree sheared pin, and then stays put until you go to fix it. Removing the spring seems to allow more throw to make it all work. But, the release bearing and clutch fingers are in constant contact, so I would plan to replace:

Release bearing,
Clutch and disc,
clutch lever with through rod'
and of course the broken pin.

If the pin is broken, the easiest way to remove the fork is to saw through it and replace it and the fork with new parts. Both together are less than $100 last time I bought them. It's worth the lost time trying to spare the shaft and fork.

You may get by without a clutch, but chances are the fingers will be well worn, and with the effort envolved to get to it, it is only an extra $150 or so to start fresh. Of course also best to surface the flywheel, for another $50 at a shop.

There are some fixes to prevent the pin from failing again...post when you get to it and we will cover those. Or, run a search for broken clutch fork pin to learn about them in the mean time.
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