Throttle Cable Issues

[MY66AH]

I just put a new throttle cable from Victoria and it seems to be binding. Any ideas? Thanks everyone.

 

[JPSmit]

Is it kinking anywhere? Did it move smoothly before you installed it?

 

[Pythias]

pull it out of the sheath and coat it with graphite lube....

 

[MY66AH]

Liquid or powder?

 

[Rut]

I like to use Slip Plate for just about everything from leaf springs to cables.
Rut
https://www.slipplate.com

 

[smaceng]

Make sure the bonnet is not putting a kink in it.

 

[MY66AH]

Make sure the bonnet is not putting a kink in it.

If it the bonnet is binding the cable should I shorten it?

 

[JPSmit]

If it the bonnet is binding the cable should I shorten it?

No, the Bonnet is designed to be the length it is.

Seriously, no, better to thread the cable carefully. In my experience cutting cables rarely ends well.

 

[jlaird]

Can always replace with a bike cable, a teflon one. Use the outside you have and the inside from the bike shop.

 

[SaxMan]

Bike cable is basically the same as the throttle cable. There are good bicycle tools such as cable cutters and housing cutters (two very different tools) that can cleanly cut the cable and/or housing. Park Tools is usually the standard in bicycle tools, but you can probably find good quality knock-offs at a local bike shop. On my cables, both on my bicycles and on the Sprite, I put a few drops of ProGold chain lubricant on the cable or housing to facilitate smoother operation.

Also, you may want to check how smooth your throttle linkage is on the carbs. I put a few drops of ProGold at all the friction points, probably wouldn't hurt on the pedal end either.

 

[MY66AH]

OK, so here's what I found. The linkage between the carbs seem to be binding on the back carb. Is there anyway to fix this or should I get one of those webber kits off ebay?

 

[SD Bugeye]

I also had an issue with a Vicky Brit cable it was too long and would bind when bonnet was closed shortned and all was good.

 

[SaxMan]

Before you plunk down money for new carbs, I'd suggest loosening up the carbs enough that you can remove the linkage. Check to see if it isn't bent or has some kind of abnormal wear. Then I'd check the "attach" points on the back carb, and lube up all the pivot points. Again, I use ProGold - a bicycle chain lube for the pivot points on the carb linkage. Put it all back together. If it is still binding, you've got another issue in play.

Also, if the carbs are way out of sync with each other, that could be causing the binding, but you'd probably notice that with some really poor driveability issues.