Thread lock vs Anti-seize

[bash]

I am rebuilding the suspension on my TR6 and have been looking around at various websites for advice and tips. I am from England, and always used copper grease on threads to prevent anything seizing - that seems to be the common wisdom of old car people over there. Americans all seem to advise using some sore of thread locking compound on those same threads. Seems odd to me.

I know that copper grease on threads will give a different reading on a torque gauge, but I never use one anyway (I probably should, but I was brought up with the advice that "Tight's tight, too tight's stripped and slack's no good to nobody"!). I have never had any problem with a copper greased bolt coming loose (touch wood!).

On the other hand, I have had such trouble getting some of the old bolts out that I can't imagine any need for thread lock. Surely that would increase the likelihood of breaking the bolt off in the future?

Sorry for the long post - any advice and thoughts appreciated!

 

[Dave Russell]

[ QUOTE ]
I am from England, and always used copper grease on threads to prevent anything seizing - that seems to be the common wisdom of old car people over there. Americans all seem to advise using some sort of thread locking compound on those same threads. Seems odd to me.

[/ QUOTE ]
Thread lockers & anti seizing compounds are used for two different purposes. It would seem odd to me also. Can you give specific examples? The only ones that comes to mind are on some shock absorber mountings the bolts tend to work loose & thread locker is sometimes used. Splined hub adaptors are another location where the nuts tend to work loose. There may be a few other specific locations where experience has shown a tendency for fasteners to loosen & thread locker might be used.
D

 

[Bruce Bowker]

Thread lock is to keep nuts or bolts in place so they won't vibrate lose. Kind of a glue on the threads so to speak. Anti seize is used for exactly what it says.

I have high pressure compressors and use both depending on location and need. In one case the 4th stage piston is bolted to the top of a guide piston and no way do I want those two bolts coming lose so there, thread lock is used.

On head bolts I use anti seize so they won't seize up on me making it hard to remove them when necessary.

I have one anti seize compound that is black. My nephew has a can of really sticky gray stuff that is great also.

Bruce

 

[bash]

Thanks for the replies. Typically I can't find the references I was thinking of when I wrote my original question, but I definately saw, for example, people stressing that you must use thread lock with caliper bolts in one place, and anti seize on another site. I think I will just do what I used to do, I was just curious why the difference. It was a real hassle to find a tin of copper grease in America - I wound up getting it from a marine chandler 1500 miles away. I wish the factory had used some on the bush sleeves, though - it took me a long time to get the rusty bolts free!

 

[ChrisS]

Fel-Pro / Loctite C5-A is a copper based anti-seize as well as Bostik Never-Seez. Both should be available from industrial supply houses, but probably not the local hardware store.

As far as what to use when that is a lot tougher. A properly prepared fastener tightened to the proper torque should not need a thread locker. The problem we have is that we don’t usually have those conditions when we’re working on these cars. Thread locker helps mask our mistakes. I generally use anti-seize products everywhere they are exposed to weather and thread lock compounds that are exposed to ‘excess’ lubrication (set screws on the forks of a transmission). One thing to be careful of is mixing the two. What I mean is putting anti-seize on the shaft of a caliper bolt and thread locker on the threads. Now matter how careful you are they end up getting mixed and you end up with a false sense of security.

 

[Bawanadic]

Just wanted to point out that there are different anti-sieze componds made for different hardware material.
I don't use the copper based with stainless steel hardware and I've been told not to use in on aluminum hardware either.
I usually antiseize any part that I don't want to get a hernia taking apart and locktite any part I don't want to see passing me on the highway.
I also really like the new locktite stick applicator and don't forget there are different grades of locktite including the blue and red.

 

[Guest]

They say Harly Davidsons don't use enough Locktight on their stuff. In fact the moto is if something falls off, don't turn around. They'll be another one up the road!


Gary

 

[Dave Russell]

I think moly disulfide comes as close to being a general anti-seize compound as anything. It works well on all materials. I have been using the same 10 ounce can for the last 45 years & still have a lot left.
D

 

[Keoke]

Well Bash, the copper grease you are refering to is not really a grease at all.The product in the UK as well as here in the US is called "Copa Slip" excellent material for controlling rot/seizing in nuts and bolts.Thread locker is an entirely different product, it can be likened to a glue which comes in a variety of strengths and tends to lock the fastener in place and is also used in conjunction with the split washer. Several penetrants are available here that loosen siezed fasteners allowing the fasteners to be removed more easily. The product I prefer is called B Blaster --- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif---Keoke