T-Series Stuck Clutch?

[vping]

I am still going through Awakening a Sleeping B so the car is not running yet, but want to start this thread so I have some info ready for when I get to the clutch part of it.

First I checked the fluid level and clarity of the fluid. Level was OK and so was the clarity.
I noticed that the clutch pedal was real soft at first (non running car) and as I pump it it started to get harder. Then as it got harder it did not want to return to the up position but kind of slowly returned.
I had a friend pump the clutch pedal as I looked into the master cylinder resevior and noticed that it started to fill up and turned an awful shade of murky muddy brown.

What can this initially tell me about the condition of the clutch? I am working at getting it started and should have it running by the weekend. The clutch will be next in line. The car has 79,000 documented miles and the car was never abused so I think it might be off somehow from sitting.

I am also asking this question for another reason. If the clutch disc is stuck, will it effect me being able to turn the engine over by hand thereby making it tough to adjust the valves? https://www.britishcarforum.com/ubbthread...p;page=0#196976

 

[ROADSTR6]

If the car's just been sitting a while, I'd bleed the clutch lines and check for leaks especially at the slave cylinder. The slave can be easily rebuilt if needed. Replacements are not too expensive. I would go ahead and replace the flex hose while I was down there.

Having muddy fluid is normal for a car that has been sitting. Clutch (brake) fluid is hydroscopic and the water it takes in will start to rust the metal parts. I wouldn't let that bother me too much. The fluid has to be changed and the system bled at a minimum.

If the clutch disc is stuck, you can still easily turn the engine over as long as you have the transmission in neutral.

Good luck getting it going!

Dave

 

[DrEntropy]

Sounds to me as if the master cylinder seals/cups are disintegrating. As the car has been sitting, it would behoove you to go through all the hydraulics and make 'em "new" before you attempt to drive it much. "Slowly returning clutch pedal"= GOO for seals in the master cylinder. The brakes would be suspected to be in the same condition. Better safe than sorry.

 

[kennypinkerton]

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/iagree.gif What they said!

 

[vping]

So what I think your saying is:
Clutch slave - $85.00 (repair kit is $4.00)
Master - $73.00 (repair kit $11.00)
Brake fluid - $5.00? What type is recommended?
Clutch Hose - $15.00 (Stainless Braided - $37.00)

At least this is a starting point. Am I missing anything?

 

[DrEntropy]

Go for the kits first, and a small cylinder hone. If the cylinders turn out to be pitted, you STILL have kits on hand for the "next time."

No "need" to go for the stainless braided lines, but I would say replace all flexi's with your "line-of-choice" while you're at it. All 4 of 'em. Get the brake kits too. The front calipers RARELY need attention, the rear cylinders will be more "needy". Fluid is a truly subjective call, I use Girling Castrol LMA, but there are plenty of folk who like the silicone stuff too.

 

[kennypinkerton]

I use the clear Valvoline stuff that's similar to Castrol LMA... Because they don't sell the Castrol stuff at my local parts store.

 

[vping]

Brakes will be another thread. Trust me I am being very methodical about my approach to the re-birth. I am not rushing 1 step.

1 - What are the other flexi lines that are needed? I am looking at Moss an cannot find them.

2 - Where can I obtain a hone for the cyls?

 

[kennypinkerton]

There are 4 flexible lines that you'll want to replace... One Clutch hose beside the starter,
the 2 brake hoses going to the front calipers,
the one brake hose going from the chassis to the rear axle (right in the middle - sortof).

Don't know about the hone... I bought a master/slave/hose kit from VB for about $100 when I did my clutch hydraulics.

 

[jlaird]

Hone at your friendly auto parts store.

 

[DrEntropy]

Kinda got that impression. Good!

I've an older Moss book, 8-05...

1- page 55, parts (illustration numbers, you'll determine exact part number by application) number 67 for fronts, 94 for the rear. Clutch is on pg. 35 in this'n, part # 19.

2- NAPA or about any well stocked parts house. "Brake Cylinder Hone." FINE stones, use oil when "cutting" the bores, and a slow speed drill with constant in-and-out motion.

Hope this helps, and you can ask any time for guidance in here... this is a remarkable resource for folks getting their "feet wet" with LBC's.

EDIT: Just dawned on me you're on the Moss website... Sorry.

 

[tony barnhill]

I would disassemble the cylinders & look inside/hone them before I ordered anything...then, based on what you see, you can decide on repair kits or new cylinders...

...Kenny's right, you want to replace the clutch slave cylinder rubber hose (the aftermarket one is fine) & all 3 of the brake rubber hoses (again, the aftermarket ones are fine)Oh, when you get to the brakes - don't even mess with rebuilding your rear wheel cylinders...just buy new aftermarket ones....& unless you're pretty good, don't try to rebuild the brake master cylinder....there are a couple of tricks to getting them apart & they entail a tiny drill bit & screws...

Contact me off-bbs for better pricing than what you're quoting for the same parts!

 

[tony barnhill]

Oh, with the wheels on the ground, put her in neutral, fit a 1-5/16" socket over the crank bolt & try to turn her by hand.

 

[vping]

Very good thanks. I think TB meant 1 5/16" as I learned from my other thread.
List is growing and I will contact TB off the BCF for an order when I finish going through my checklist. I might as well order all of the little bits I need at once.
Thanks to all and I'll keep ya posted.

 

[tony barnhill]

oops, sory - yep, 1-5/16"