Re: shocks or levers "survey"
First.
The street car I'm building will probably retain the lever units. But I'll drain and re-fill them with clean oil. This often makes a huge difference. And if this doesn't help, for 99% of Spridget drivers, I think using the services of PeterC is a great idea. He has a great reputation.
However, there is a minority of us who use our cars for motorsports and need dampers that will not fade, even after 4 hours of hard use. For this type of situtation, the tube units are probably better. I can't think of any regular production racers who use lever units in a Spridget (except vintage racers).
Second. I hate the word "shocks" as applied to dampers.
The springs are the "shocks".
Whether they are tube-type or lever-type, they are "dampers".
But despite this, I'll use the word "shocks", since that seems to be the prevailing term these days. [/sigh]/
Anyway, if you really need the tube shocks for your application:
To convert the rear lever dampers to tube-tube dampers, flip the lower clamping plate that the rear axle U-bolts go through.
This will give it enough "drop that you can use Monroe part # 5877R tube-shocks
For the upper mount, use the upper strap mount (with a longer bolt). You may have to drill out the mounting holes on the end of each shock just slightly. And you will have to remove the dust cover. You can delete the upper strap mount or reposition it.
For front shocks, I used the same Monroe # 5877R units.
More info on fronts:
https://npmccabe.tripod.com/spritetubeshock.htm
For racing, these Monroe shocks have worked out great. I have same size Spax on the front right now, but I'll probably switch back to Monroe next season.
As usual, you are on your own on this.
Please don't write to me if you're unhappy with the result or your Mother-in-law complains about the rough ride.
[edit]--Just checked online. The gas Monroe #5877R are $25.81 each (USD). The regular (non-gas) shocks in this model are $15.02 each