Removing the Smith's Heater

[Texas_Cicada]

As part of my "rolling restoration" I have removed the original Smith's heater unit (blower and heater core) from my 1960 Bugeye. Now I need to re-plumb the heater hoses. My plan is to loop the heater hoses from the heater valve back into the engine block. I do not want to make any permanent modifications, although since I live in Texas and do not plan on driving in the cold, I doubt I will reconnect the heater any time soon. Can any of you think of any problems I might run into in doing this? Any other ideas?

 

[RobSelina]

Just looked at "How to Power Tune a Midget & Sprite" since I remembered something about this being mentioned...here's what it says:

"If you do remove the heater element, retain the heater tap but reverse its position so that it will be easy to run a hose from the tap the the union at the front of the engine. NEVER turn off the heater tap as this action will cause overheating of the number 4 cylinder."

seems in-tune with what you're thinking....

 

[Texas_Cicada]

Makes sense. I was thinking about turning the heater valve around to facilitate running a by-pass hose, so it sounds like I am on the right track. Good to know not to shut off the valve. I was wondering about that. Thanks for the help.

 

[Bugeye58]

Tex, on the "A" series engines I race we don't use a heater valve, but run a line from where the heater valve goes, back to the radiator. If you don't, the head gasket will usually blow around #4, or occasionally #4 will get hot enough to cook a piston. But, all you have to do is run a section of hose from the valve back to the copper pipe. If you have a good relationship with your local parts store, maybe they'll let you look at the hose selection, and find a formed hose that will be nearly an exact fit.
Jeff /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif

 

[Texas_Cicada]

Jeff-

Is what you are saying essentially the same thing as what Rob said in his post? In other words, don't blank over the heater valve or shut it off...make sure water flows out the heater valve port back to the radiator.

BTW...if the cooling system relied on water flowing through the heater valve, why was there a valve in the first place? Wouldn't owners risk blowing the head gasket when they shut the valve off during warm weather? Wouldn't it have made more sense to use some kind of diverter there to either route hot water to the heater core or re-route it back to the radiator? Maybe this is where BMC would have ended up with a few more decades of development.

 

[Bugeye58]

Tex, yeah, I'm essentially aping what Rob said.
I have no idea why the shutoff valve was there in the first place, unless it just seemed like a good idea to be able to shut the heater off in those sweltering British summers. I got my first LBC in Arizona, and was taught to never shut the valve off. I have no data to support this, other than the fact of having lost a couple of race engines to overheating by using a blockoff plate where the heater valve went. I have not had any problems since I used the bypass hose to the radiator trick.
I suppose it could be merely coincidental, but..........?
I've got a friend that has a ton of Dyno hours with "A" series engines, and I'll ask him what he thinks.
Jeff

 

[Texas_Cicada]

Thanks for the clarification.

I'll see what I can find at the auto parts place with regard to a bypass hose. I have a few more I need to replace. Most of the hoses under my hood were sections of garden hose. (#%$*%$&!!!) The PO was not much for originality. I probably have dishwashing liquid in the brake system. (I actually DID have leaves, mulch, seeds, etc. in the radiator.) On the plus side, when I got the car home, it still ran. It didn't stop, but it did run. I have most of the under-hood area dis-assembled and cleaned. The radiator has been replaced. Master cylinder has been rebuilt. It should go back together nicely.