Paint Booth Built

[hondo402000]

Well here is the paint booth, 16 feet x 16 feet. I hope its long enough, have to measure the TR6 but I think is long enough, Better to have too much room than not enough

Hondo

 

[hondo402000]

pic 2

 

[hondo402000]

pic 3

Now all I have to do is put kraft paper down on the floor, get the fan installed and the filter pannels and some kind of door

Hondo

 

[Brosky]

Just make sure that you have enough air venting to allow the fan to pull air out and not suck the walls in, especially when the filters get a little blocked and cut the volume of air down.

 

[hondo402000]

I understand, you see the heater over the top of the booth, My plan to to add heated forced air to the booth via a duct

working on the filter boxes now

Hondo

 

[dklawson]

If you are planning on supplying forced air to the inside of the booth, you may wish to re-consider how you've attached the plastic film. You will have much less stress on the plastic if you staple it to the inside of the booth instead of to the inside. Strips of cardboard are very good at spreading the load around the staple points. If you are considering putting plastic down on the floor, keep in mind that while it works... it will be very slippery. Be careful moving the car and as you walk around the booth.

I also found it's very handy to install several of the cheap, over-the-workbench fluorescent light fixtures inside the booth. As soon as you start spraying the cloud of overspray will reduce the available light so it's good to have as much light as possible from the start.

 

[TR6oldtimer]

A word or two of caution.

First, if that plastic is not designed for painting, over spray will electrostatically attach to it, but not adhere. So if you shoot the primer sealer, some will attach, then when you shoot the other coats, whether sand-able primer, or color, or what ever, the air from the gun will knock the old dry paint into the air, and on to your paint job. Ask me how I know. Yes, I learned the hard way. So now I use a plastic material specifically designed to cause the paint to adhere. Or, on small jobs, I change the plastic between shots.

I do not know what size fans you are going to use, or how much you will paint each time, but you do need a high volume supply and exhaust fan. If not, you will fill the space in no time with mist, not to mention the evaporated solvents in the paint. Do some simple calculation on volume and the air flow from your fans to see what your air refresh rate will be.

Filters are also very important. You want ones with a high flow rate, that at the same time will trap the particulates. If going with furnace fans, be sure to double them up.

Other then that, it looks good and can be a lot of fun.

 

[rlwhitetr3b]

I was thinking that the plastic on the inside would also provide fewer places for dust etc. to hide.

 

[deadair]

I'm a little nervous about a duct between a heat source (read FLAME) and very flammable paint fumes. I know the direction of air is away from the fumes, but I'd use the heater to pump just air while painting without heat.

 

[hondo402000]

let me say that I do appreciate any feed back and will try to answer the questions, The floor will be covered with kraft paper and all bottom joints taped with duct tape to prevent air infiltration, Didnt think about the plastic collecing paint particles so maybe I will spray it with antistatic spray to keep the paint from being attracted to it(learned that from building fireworks and thats another story but loads of fun for all) how ever from base coat to clear coat we are talking about maybe 2 hours total. Now the heater will only be turned on to heat the booth up and bring the car up to temp and that air will be filtered too, 75F, and off during spraying, and back on for the curing. the fan is a squirrel cage type from a Forced air furnace and puts out a pretty mean stream of air and it will be filtered before the fan and exited to the outside. as far as filters go, they stop every thing but smoke, as far as size, on each side of the booth 24x96 inch filtration 2304 x 2 = 4608 sq inches and divide that by 144 is 32 sq feet, enough, dont know ooo the heater is a indirect fired heater which has a heat exchanger so no direct flames so as long as I exhaust the fumes out side I think I am ok Once I get every thing plumed I plan on a smoke test to see how the fan works, Ok update tomorrow when the filters get installed, good thing my boss is not a BCF member

Hondo

 

[tr6_easyrider]

You may want to extend the lenght by a few feet (4), if you have the room.
At 16' your only giving yourself 1 1/2' in the front and back.
Joe

 

[hondo402000]

Thanks Joe
I had planned on adding 4 feet and just finished doing that this morning and putting the filters in. Next boxing in the fan

Hondo

 

[Tr4dude]

You should get some firberglass paint booth filters to put in front of your furnace filters or the over spray will clog your filters and will blow your plastic off, I did my booth almost the same way you have it. Also 3m 2inch green automotive painters tape will seal the seams better on the plastic than duct tape, I used caulk to seal the bottom with the duct tape came off even after cleaning the floor with acetone. And I also used a 2200 cfm furnace fan. You will have no overspray mist to deal with that much air. Make sure your fresh breathing air is fed from outside away from any possible paint fumes and if you can make sure your compressor is outside.

 

[suzi6]

You can buy zippers that stick on your plastic to make your door. I found mine
at Lowes. They are 7 feet long. In my booth I filtered the incoming air & used
the squirrel cage fan as exhaust. Someone told me to run a ground wire to the
car while painting to cut down on any static electricity.

 

[hondo402000]

yes duct tape doesnt work to well on plastic, will get some green painters tape tonight. I will look for the zippers too

Hondo

 

[billspit]

yes duct tape doesnt work to well on plastic, will get some green painters tape tonight. I will look for the zippers too

Hondo

We used to use duct tape all the time on asbestos abatement projects with no problem. But if the painters tape is better go with that.

 

[trrdster2000]

Hondo, looks like you have it well covered and with base coat clear coat you do have some room for error. Might I suggest you jack the car up and use jack stands, this will help with the grounding, also run the car from corner to corner, this will give lots of room to get under the front and rear. You will need lots of heat this weekend and I have another squirrel cage you can borrow. I'm up in Salisbury.

Did a Healey years ago in a warehouse, good job, but everything was blue in the shop.

Wayne

 

[hondo402000]

Hi Wayne
thanks for the offer, I should have the door on the booth tomorrow and be able to test the pull on my squirrel cage fan set up in the booth. There use to be a HVAV contractory next to my office and they always had used furnaces laying in the back, thats where I got my current fan, I kept looking for another but the motors were alway bad. Any way I will PM you if I need to borrow yours. thanks

Hondo

 

[trrdster2000]

That's fine and mine came out of some kind of monster in the basement as well. I'll PM you with a phone number now.

Wayne

 

[Brosky]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Someone told me to run a ground wire to the
car while painting to cut down on any static electricity.[/QUOTE]

That and a wet floor will also keep the dust down.