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Hylomar, IMHO, works best on machined mating surfaces that almost don't need a sealer, but still do, like transmission components.
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Interesting. It always seems there are lots of differing opinions about gasket sealers! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif
Frankly, I've found just the opposite with Hylomar. One reason I use it on joints like the sump pan to block (just used it on a similarly-designed TR differential cover) is that it comes out of the tube thicker than some other non-hardening sealants and forms an immediate, good seal across a variety of gaps. The car can be put right back in service, since there's no need to wait for it to cure, and oils (etc.) can be refilled immediately and the seal will hold up under moderate pressure. I also like the thin blue line that squeezes out and visually confirms I've got a good complete seal. Plus it's non-hardening which makes disassembly easier and will help maintain a seal if bolts ever need re-tightening or anything shifts slightly for any reason.
By the way, it might be tougher now to get Hylomar. Until recently, Hylomar was made by Permatex, or at least marketed by them here in the U.S. (Dunno about elsewhere.) Perhaps they licensed the name and formula from the original British manufacturer and maybe they dropped it when they developed their own similar product. I'm just glad I've got a few tubes of Hylomar stashed away, but don't know what I'll do when that runs out!
In similar applications to Hylomar I've used Permatex Non-Hardening Sealer (#2). It starts out a bit thinner and needs some time to set up before starting the engine, etc. It's also brown, which makes it harder to see if a good seal has been formed. In general, I think it hardens a bit more over time, so is a little more difficult to disassemble and clean off, and is less resiliant if a bolt is re-tightened later, etc.
Other sealers I use include Permatex High Tack. I like it to adhere one side of a valve cover gasket, leaving the other side without sealer so that the cover can be removed to adjust valves. It's a hardening, thinner sealer that's good for this purpose, although a little tougher to remove when the gasket eventually needs replacment.
Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket is a good sealer for metal to metal seals, where no gasket is used. It's also safe with gasoline. It does need a little time to cure and is more difficult to disassemble and remove.
I like Permatex Copper Spray-A-Gasket for head gaskets, exhaust gaskets, sensors, etc.
IMHO, RTV Silicone type sealers are something to generally avoid for engine and drivetrain. A little too much squeezing inside an engine can allow flakes or chunks break or peel off and find their way into the oil system, possibly interrupting or restricting oil flow. An engine application where I might use it is on a brand new, clean, dry cork valve cover gasket, where it can be coated on, left to completely dry and inspected carefully for any loose flakes before assembly. I do use RTV silicone sealers for various other applications, most recently to waterproof some fog lights on my Land Rover. It's good around windows, too, but beware that some silicones will stain paint over time, if in direct contact with it.
I don't particularly care for any gasket "maker" as opposed to a gasket "dressing". It's easy enough to get blank gasket materials and make my own, if a gasket can't easily be found through a vendor. My main use for a gasket maker is in an emergency breakdown kit, to be used temporarily until a "real" gasket can be installed.
Permatex' "Right Stuff" is classified as a gasker maker, but might be useful as a sealer, as well. I haven't tried it, but might sometime. Might have to, if I can't find Hylomar in the future!
There is a lot of info about what to use in different applications on
www.permatex.com and
https://www.hylomar.co.uk/.
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