More DPO Pedro Bits

[Tinster]

Well, I pulled DPO Pedro's failed starter motor this
morning. What an awkward task to remove the two attachment
bolts. BLARGH!! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/crazyeyes.gif

I took before photos of everything.....but
I missed a spade on the motor where the ignition
switch wire connects. There are two spades-upper and lower.
Anyone know which spade gets the ignition switch wire?
Thanks as always. Someday, I hope to understand auto
mechanics myself and will not need to ask so many stupid
questions.

David and I checked the ring gear teeth when David installed
the clutch. They were all fine and dandy. The teeth still
look A-ok to me. Am I correct?

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[Guest]

Were you and Dave pushing the car to get it started when he was there? Why not replace the starter when he did the clutch if it was bad?

 

[2wrench]

Dale, see a post titled: "Help with TR6 starter installation." Do a search. See some photos and
discussion help.

See that I allowed the hot wire to get too close to the
starter motor body -- insulation lacking at end of hot wire
and not enough washer(s) where hot wire bolts on.

Had pulled the neg wire off battery until everything
installed. Placed the neg on the battery post and
sparks flew. Elementry error, but then, I tend to make
them.

PS Hope you had a nice vacation and glad to see you back
on the net.

 

[tomshobby]

Hi Dale, I would assume the upper is for the ignition switch and the lower is for the ballast resister.

You can test this one of two ways. Remember that you only need to know if it will activate. It does not need to run for any period.

You could install the starter and hook up the battery leads. Then, with the car in neutral and the ignition off, touch a jumper wire from the positive battery post to the top lead. While doing this you could have a volt meter hooked to the bottom spade connector and a ground source. If the starter turns and the volt meter reacts they are as I suspect.

The other way would be to secure the starter and "bench" test it the same way using jumper cables. The thing about this way is that the starter will want to move because of the torque when it turns over and it will make some sparks. Some of us old timers just lay the starter on the floor and do it this way with no thought of the starter jumping when it turns over. You may not want to and it could hit the solenoid if you are not careful.

 

[70herald]

The teeth still
look A-ok to me. Am I correct?

They look fine to me. Don't powder coat them.

 

[TR3driver]

A simpler bench test, IMO, is to just connect power to one of the spade terminals and the housing. If you hear/feel the solenoid activate, then that is the terminal for the white/red from the ignition switch. The starter motor won't run (meaning you don't need a power supply capable of powering it) if there is no power on the big stud.

Once you find the solenoid terminal, you can use an ohmmeter or test light to check that the other spade terminal gets grounded (through the starter motor) when you activate the solenoid. But this step really shouldn't be necessary.

 

[tomshobby]

Good point Randall, he will still need a ground though. I was thinking back to the early 60's when I used to get starters from a salvage yard. Replace the starter after school and go girlin in the evening. A mission of highest importance! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

 

[TR3driver]

he will still need a ground though.

True ... that was what I meant when I said "and the housing". Sorry I was unclear.