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Info on Porsche 944

gjh2007

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My wifes friend's husband has a 944 for sale, no other info other than it's silver, I've seen some nice examples of these, love the Guards red with black center wheels. I think they have the tranny mounted out back and a near 50-50 weight ratio. My '88 Range Rover gets 13-14 mpg & I'm thinking about something I can drive summers, besides the TR and not worry about parking it.

Any experience out there? Years to go for/watch out for (turbo/non etc) & shopping tips, plus cost in the North East.
 

Jon12

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I also wanted some info on the 944 Turbo, my friend is very interested in one. I think I'm going to run from it when it breaks down but I do have a good understanding of the L-jetronic fi system.

Any info on reliability and what to expect would be appreciated.

Thanks, Jon
 

Basil

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I owned an 88 944 for several years and really loved it. Deceny gas milage and "ok" performance. Not a screamer like some of the high-end Porsches, but decent. Road holding is above average. Also, it has a fair amount of storage space under the hatch back. It does have back seats, but they are only suitable for small kids (or adults for very short trips).

It was a farily reliable car until the timing belt broke and every valve in the head got bent! $1600 repair job! Moral - if you buy one, have the belt changes as soon as you get it, then every 30k miles afterwards! (The recommend every 50k I think, but that's pushing it.)

Basil

[ 05-09-2004: Message edited by: Basil ]</p>
 

78Z

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Motor maintaince is expensive as the the four banger is essentially half a 928 engine.
 

TR7/8 TPI

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Ok, there are two main differences in the non-turbo 944. Pre 1985.5 and post 1985.5 .Pre 1985.5's have, in my opinion, a very ugly dash whereas the newer cars have a more modern dash.

Any 944 is rock solid reliable as long as timing and balance belts are replaced on schedule and the cooling system is kept up to par. The recommended belt change is 50k miles and will go that far as long as there are no oil leaks at the front of the engine.

The NA 944 is an utter pig if automatic with only 143hp @8.3 sec 0-60 but the 5 speed is bearable. The braking and handling of the NA will be better than most anything you have ever driven though.

If it is an NA and cheap(under 4k or so), check records on the belts and have a PPI done.

The 944 Turbo which began in the US in 86 is a totally different beast from front to rear. In stock form, it produces 217hp and 243ft.lbs. of torque. 0-60 is 5.7 and top speed is 153mph. This is extremely limited by the the stock computer(KLR) which only allows 10lbs of boost below 3500rpm which is lowered to 7.5lbs of boost above 3500rpm by the cyclic valve that acts on the wastegate. With the use of a cheap manual boost controller or a $250 electronic boost controller with Autothority Stage II chips in the DME and KLR can yield 14-16lbs of boost and 250-265hp and a top speed of 172mph. This will bring 0-60 down to 5.2-5.3sec which is the same as the later model 944 Turbo S.

944 Turbo handling is remarkable! Porsche did'nt just throw a turbo on it. Everything in the suspension and drivetrain is bigger and beefier! The stock brakes are Brembo 4 piston calipers front and rear. Not to mention the front bumper and rear valance that look great but were designed in a wind tunnel to greatly reduce drag. Unlike most turbo cars, the 944 Turbo comes stock with a bypass valve that blows of boost pressure between shifts and has an auxilliary electric water pump that continues to circulate water through the turbo once the engine is turned off thus negating the need for a "turbo timer".

The 944 Turbo (951) is, bar none, the best bang for the buck. Especially if you can do alot of the work yourself. Keep in mind though, one that appears to be cheap and has no records or fails miserably in a PPI will be EXTREMELY expensive to repair and maintain when paying a competent shop to do the work. For example, timing and balance belt replacement will be an easy grand and a clutch replacement will be an easy $1400.

A 944, though considered to be a "poor man's" Porsche can be as expensive to repair as any 911 or 928.

The general rule of thumb on Porsche's is to buy the best one you can afford. A Porsche that appears to be a really good deal or a steal, is NOT unless, like myself, you can do most of the work yourself.

Below is an ad that shows the difference in components that seperates a lowly 944 and a 944 Turbo.

I dont know about the Northeast but any nice 944 should be around $4500-$7500, 944 Turbo $7500-$12500 and a 944 S2 $5500-$9000.

Go and find a 944S2 or 944 Turbo and test drive it. You will be amazed!

I have run with Corvette C5's on twisty roads and have either been right on their butts or passed them.

Ad-951differences02.jpg


[ 05-09-2004: Message edited by: TR7/8 TPI ]

[ 05-09-2004: Message edited by: TR7/8 TPI ]</p>
 

Steve

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iagree.gif
Good information there........as an aside, if you are serious about one of these, check the panel gaps carefully. They should be perfectly even all the way around, if not then it indicates accident damage and should raise a red flag. If this car has a good service history then you should be in good shape. Those wheels with the black centre that you mentioned are Fuchs alloys, very nice but also very expensive. 1986 and newer cars had the oval instrument binnacle as opposed to the older cars' oblong one, and are more desirable. Good luck.
 

Eric

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Excellent info above. There's lots of information, buying tips, maintenance tips, etc. at www.clarks-garage.com/
 
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gjh2007

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Thanks guys, especially TR7/8 PI, lots of usefull info. I wouldn't be following up on this lead if my wife said we should probably take a look at it.

I never argue with her!!!
 

Jon12

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Thanks for the information, I've always been interested in the turbo version but my friend may actually get one in the future. Maybe I'll start letting him drive the spitfire more often
wink.gif
 
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