MO--
After rooting in vain for the Yankees I am ready to return to the task at hand.
So your first job was to evaluate the condition of the R & P gears themselves. They should not be too sharp and I can only compare your evaluation process to that used when looking at the splines on your wire wheels: The shoulders on the splines should not be too sharp. If they are very sharp to the touch (as w/ the splines on wire wheels) that is an indication they splines are worn. Also the scuffing on front and back faces should be more or less even.
So let's assume that the fellow who is going to set up the R & P says bring it in and he installs it and all is fine and quiet. Now we can move along to the leaky axle seals.
You will have to remove via a press the bearing and once you have it out check it out to make sure it is not chewed up with any binding, etc. Assuming no, now pry out the lip seal--don't worry that it will distort in the process. Once it is out see if the rubber is supple, that the spring is holding the rubber in place against the end of the stub axle, and that the stub axle is not pitted, rusted or corroded to the point where oil can leak past the lip and into the brake drum and down the inside of the wheel and tire and to the ground. This leak will be most noticeable sometime after you have come in from a run and are parked on concrete, or on cardboard where the oil will not disappear.
The lip seal may have a small bit of in/out play ((1/116" at most along the stub shaft and while the stub shaft bearing surface may not actually be a machined surface it is close enough for our purposes to qualify as one.
If the pitting, gouging, etc. is bad enough to allow for leaking then the solution is to install a speedi- or redi-sleeve, and the correct number that matches the bearing will be marked on the box for the lip seal. Chicago rawhide is a good source available at most all chain stores--estimated cost might be $50 per side.
The instructions re how to install the sleeve are simplicitity themselves so there is no sense in my paraphrasing them. (I did ruin one sleeve in the process). You will probably have to make an application tool as the one that comes with the part is not deep enough--I used a piece of PVC cap which was deep enough to go over the stub axle and pick up the flared edge of the sleeve. You may decide to remove the retainer springs or wheel cylinder to give more room--I did not and was working on an Elva Courier which is 8" and much tighter for room--I don't think you will have to. Just be sure to have your tools--side cutter, small cold chisel, small hammer, needlenose, etc. on hand and that you make the suggested small snip on the edge of the seal above the score line so that once the seal has been driven up onto the stub axle the excess material can be easily pulled off. When the hub is tightened into place it will be quite apparent that you have accomplished a lot and the hub will spin on the stub/sleeve in a very satisfactory mannner. The thought "New wife" or "husband's stitch" comes to mind....
I did this procedure to both L and R sides a few months back and I have no leakage of axle oil into the hub whatsoever. I have actually gotten used to having rear brakes on the car now--what a concept!!!
Let us know how it goes-it is well worth the time and expense.