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EType steering question

billca

Senior Member
Offline
I'm looking for any tips on replacing the bellows and gaiters on the front suspension of my '67 E-Type.

Am I likely to retain the wheel alignment if I count the turns when unscrewing the tie rod ball joint from the tie rod and put it back together with the same number of turns?

Will the typical ball joint removal tool work well in this case?

billca
 

jessebogan

Jedi Knight
Offline
If you are re using the original parts, it should stay the same, or really close to it. I prefer to use an actual splitter that the more traditional "pickle fork" The forks can damage the joints. Are you doing the balljoint boots as well? If so, it is worth disassembling each joint, cleaning the components thoroughly, reassemble and see if they need shims removed to adjust them. Look closely at the cups for the lower joints. If the grease troughs are worn away, it is time for rebuild.
 

piman

Darth Vader
Offline
Hello jesse,

my manual, (Mk2 sedan but I assume the joints are the same) states that the shims are for initial adjustment only. They are not to be removed to compensate for wear but rather the joint must be replaced.

Alec
 
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billca

Senior Member
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Jesse and Alec,
Thanks for the suggestions.
Yes, I am replacing the ball joint gaiters. I got some new ones from Moss. They look very different from the original rubber ones but will hopefully work.
I don't see any shims mentioned in the E Type service manual so I guess they weren't used.
Bill
 

jessebogan

Jedi Knight
Offline
There ARE shims, in both the upper and lower joints.The manuals did say not to adjust them by removing shims. However, at that time, there were new genuine Jaguar high quality parts available to replace them with. Now, that is no longer exactly true.Some aftermarket joints are fine. Some are junk. I have found, due to a bunch of trial and error, that removing the thinnest shim usually will take up wear in a satisfactory manner. As all the parts wear together, they become "lapped" into a perfect fit. This usually will allow 1 thin shim to be removed, with no ill effects. If you wish, get some engineers blue, and check the fit of the joint. New balljoints are pretty snug, so if yours are loose after you remove the upright, then examine everything really well after thoroughly cleaning all parts, and look closely for wear, and how the parts fit. If they fit OK(NO SLOP) then try removing the thinnest shim, and see what you wind up with.
 
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billca

Senior Member
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Jesse,
You're right about shims on the A-arm ball joints. However, it got lost that I was referring to the tie rod ball joints. It's so much fun to do these, perhaps I'll change both the tie rods and A-arm joints.
billca
 

why

Jedi Trainee
Country flag
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When I took it apart to replace gaiters, I counted turns, counted threads exposed and before taking apart put adhesive tape around threaded section so it was abutting the tie rod end and served as another check. It was some time ago, but seem to recall separating tie rod end ball joint by positioning jack under tie rod end, section of 2X4 went up against the fitting and put some pressure on it to separate with jack and then gave it a few firm whacks with a hammer around the ball joint perimeter and it popped off.
 
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