Engine Backplate Installed...OOPS!!

[LEERIVAS]

Hey Folks,

I spent Thursday night poring over the previous posts regarding the correct method of re-installing the Engine Backplate.

Friday, I felt prepared. I cleaned everything, applied globs of black Permatex on the block and on the paper gasket and torqued everything to 50 ft lbs.

The end result almost brought me to tears. I just sat back and admired it. (You can tell I know very little about engine mechanics, but it gives me a hobby as a retiree)

Well this "glow" was with me until this morning when I went to the "Manual" and read "Remember to fit into its groove the square section cork ...into the bottom of the rear main bearing cap. If this is not done, the plate will have to be removed later on."

My depression now is palpable. What did I miss? What does this square section cork even look like? It goes into what groove?

Just somebody tell me it's a misprint.

 

[BlueRidge1]

Did you have the main bearing caps off?

 

[LEERIVAS]

Yes, I had removed them and replaced them

But I remember a long cork strip that went into a groove on the front plate.

I can't remember any groove in the back plate. I may have done the same. I honestly can't remember.

We're talking about prep work before the oil pan gasket was installed, right?

 

[red57]

Hi LEERIVAS,

The cork gaskets are about 3/16" square and about 4 1/2" long. There are two in the gasket kit and they fit in the same way both front and back. There is a notch in the main cap that the cork sits in and is sqeezed front/rear between the end plate and the main cap notch and squeezed top/bottom between the main cap notch and the pan.

If you just put the end plate on last night and you didn't install the cork, I would just loosten the bolts and pull the backplate away enough to work the cork in with a light coat of permatex and retighten the bolts. Permatex doesn't fully cure for a while and I've found it's really good at re-sealing if you need to disturb a joint before it's cured.

An alternative is to shave down the cork just enough to work it in with a liberal coating of permatex. When you tighten the pan it will squeeeze the cork causing it to swell and seal.

In my opionion these aren't too critical if everything else is sealed well. These corks do not see any direct oil pressure or flow - for oil to get to them it will have already had to seep by the main cap and it's round felt seals, or the end plate gasket, or the pan gasket first. Having said that, I never put one together without them just 'cause I don't want to tempt the fates.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.
Dave Phillips

 

[andybj8]

Dave
if leerivas fitted an after market crank seal, I doubt if it would matter? as I suppose any leak is most likely to come from here? (as the other seals are all new and hopefully will not leak, while the crank may be due to wear)
just a thought

 

[andybj8]

Leerivas here is a pic and you can see the recess at the bottom of the plate, where the cork seal would go, as Dave pointed out shouldnt be to hard to get the seal in, how about leaving and filling with a silicon sealer?
https://www.austin-healey3000.com/apps/photos/photo.jsp?photoID=5125772&prev=1

 

[Ed Kaler]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]applied globs of black Permatex on the block and on the paper gasket [/QUOTE]

All, NEVER and I repeat NEVER use "globs" and ANY gasket sealer!!! :hammer: :hammer: :hammer:

Sealers get applied with you FINGER and made in to a "skin" layer!!!!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]"If this is not done, the plate will have to be removed later on."[/QUOTE]

Sorry, but I agree with the Manual. Besides Leerivas (what is your REAL name<G>??), it will allow you to clean up the mess you have 'created' :hammer:

As a note I have only done several HUNDRED motors. :banana:

And Leerivas, drop me a note DIRECTLY as I have some pics YOU will enjoy that Basil will not!!


Ed (ex-'on-the jobber' myself :angel: )

 

[LEERIVAS]

Ed,

I was being facetious when I wrote that I used "globs."

I will loosen the backplate and place the cork gasket tomorrow as per Dave's option.

...Lee Rivas

 

[Ed Kaler]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]I was being facetious when I wrote that I used "globs."

OK, Lee !! :lol:

I will loosen the backplate and place the cork gasket tomorrow as per Dave's option.

Make SURE the stuff is still 'sticky'!

Also, coat the cork 'square' with finger-applied engine oil. Goes in a LOT easier. :angel:

Don't forget to write me :angel: :lol:


Ed (ex-on-the-job_)

 

[BUNDYRUM]

Hello LEERIVAS

If you look at the pictures that andybj8 gave the link to and go to picture # 15. There are 2 gasket sets shown, the lower one is the bottom end set. In the center if that set there are 2 straight pieces, they are the cork seals you're looking for.

Regards,

bundyrum.

 

[BertVanBrande]

Hi Lee,

The Socal Austin-Healey Club is having a tech session near you in a couple of weeks. Tuning SU carbs, Fuel pump service, kingpin and tierod exam...
and a drive through the Los Angeles Forest.

Check out https://www.austin-healey.org/

Best of luck with the backplate.

Cheers,

Bert
AHA webmaster